When asked about spinning (I will use a drop spindle in public), the answer is that, “It’s cheaper than therapy, and I have yarn when I’m done.”

In truth, though, I knit and crochet because it’s what I do.  It’s what I’ve done ever since my parents taught me when I was a kid.  And, yes, I said parents.  My mother taught me to knit, but Pop taught me to crochet. (Pop also taught me the joys of geometrical design, but that’s another column.)

Like many craftspeople, I have my strengths and weaknesses.  My strengths are my color sense, and my love of textural knitting.  My weakness is designing, although I can claim one of the first toe-up sock patterns on the Web (“Deb’s Almost-Easy Toe-Up Sock),”  at Socknitters.com.

Currently, my favorite things to knit are socks, shawls, and shawlettes.  My favorite designers are many:  Wendy Johnson, Cookie A, Vickie Howell, Ysolda, Stephanie Pearl-McPhee, Mary Ann Beattie, and many others.  I have at least five projects going most of the time, and I switch back and forth depending on mood, event I will be at, and whether I can do the pattern from memory, or need a printout or proximity to a computer.

My current main project is the Year of Stash Socks 2011 Challenge.  This challenge involves making at least one of the offered patterns each month, or a “plain vanilla sock” of one’s choice.

When I am not plying needles or hooks, I am either making beaded jewelry, writing (I’m a freelance writer by trade), reading, walking, or some combination of the above.  I live in Brooklyn, NY, with a roommate and two cats, and I love to show off my city, wander through parks and museums, and try most of the ethnic foods so readily available in New York (Indian and Hispanic are particular favorites).

I look forward to meeting many of you online, and possibly in person if you are ever in New York City.

Intarsia is actually a woodworking term, where it refers to inlaying different colours or types of wood to create a design.

Intarsia is also a knitting technique used to create patterns or designs with more than one colour in a block or section. The intarsia sections can be any shape or design you like.

From my perspective there are 4 types of intarsia knitting.

1. Knit a picture as you knit the garment – such as a truck on the front of a boys sweater, or a heart on a girls sweater. The pattern is provided on a graph.
2. Create a geometric design over a whole garment such as tumbling blocks as per a Kaffe Fassett design.
3. Let your mind take over and knit in a freeform way using many colours as I do on all or part of your garment or art piece.
4. Icelandic Intarsia – where all the work is completed in garter stitch only.

Unlike Fair Isle knitting, in intarsia the yarn is not carried across the back of the work. You knit with a separate length of yarn for each block or section of colour

Knit Intarsia – basics:

Straight vertical stripes are the simplest intarsia design to create. After the first row, the pattern is continued by always knitting each stitch in the same colour as the previous row, changing colours at the exact same point in each row. 

When you wish to change the colour bring the new colour up under the old, and trap the old yarn between the new yarn and the knitting which reduces the risk of a hole at a junction of two colours.

The twisting and changing of yarns always occurs on the wrong side of the work.

Getting this right reduces the risk of holes at the colour changes and is the most important technique to master.  

Do try to keep your tension consistent as you switch colours and to not knit too tightly or too loosely with a new colour although blocking will improve slight uneven tension in the knitting.  

Learn to manage many yarns in one row without too much tangling. The yarns will tangle, so it is a matter of working out the best way for you to manage them. You can use bobbins or use lengths that are more manageable. Run your fingers through the yarns as you do to reduce the problem works well if using many short lengths of yarn.

Weave in the ends of the yarn as you go where possible.

Swiss darning can be used to change a section if you wish.

1. When knitting a picture – to change the colour of a section of the design.
2. If you missed a colour change add it when garment is completed.
3. Embellish an intarsia knit

Knit Intarsia – work a simple design:

Create a washcloth using the intarsia technique:

Knit a wash cloth in cotton in two colours with a stripe knitted up the centre 15 stitches using the intarsia method.

1. Cast on 45 stitches with an appropriate needle for the cotton being used.
2. Knit 15 st white, 15 st red, and 15 st white.
3. Knit to the desired size. 
4. Cast off

OR

1. Knit 16 rows
2. Reverse the colour sequence – knit 15 st red, 15 st white, and 15 st red
3. Repeat 2 times more or till the wash cloth is the size you wish it to be
4. Cast off

Create a scarf using the intarsia technique:

Knit as above with wool or mohair yarns and an appropriate needle size and continue with the 16 rows of each sequence until you have the right length for a scarf.

Knit Intarsia – work a simple charted design: coming next!

Have you discovered Shadow knitting yet?  It’s a lot of fun and makes for some interesting discussions with folks who see your project.

When viewed from the “normal” straight down angle, your knitting looks like a colorful ribbing project.   You can use any colors you wish, but contrasting colors work best.   Alternating colors every 2 rows.

The fun comes in when you change the angle of view.  Looking at a 45 degree angle at your project, and you’ll discover some clever knitting and purling! 

Found this great little book called Shadow Knitting by Vivian Hoxbro.    The book contains very nice detailed patterns for winged shawls, squared bags, a matching cap and scarf, vests, sweaters, and Japanese-style kimonos.  $14.93 on Amazon.

Almost immediately I found a traditional cuff down sock I really wanted to try. One I really needed to knit following the pattern before I tried it toe-up.  I searched and could not find a cast-on that was elastic enough. In frustration, I put the pattern aside and started another project.  A scarf. One with a lace pattern knit starting in the center, with a provisional cast-on and that’s when I had my “A-ha!” moment.

A provisional cast-on enabled me to knit the sock from the cuff down, remove the provisional row picking up the “live stitches” and use the elastic bind-off.  It worked! And quickly became my favorite cast-on for traditional socks.

Provisional cast-ons are used for a variety of projects including:

• A toe-up sock cast-on.
• Knitting from the middle out to the ends. This works especially well with a one-way design such as a cable or some lace patterns as in the scarf I knit. It also works well for patterns closed at both ends, such as knitting a ball.
• If you start a project but want to decided how the end will look later. One example is knitting a pair of socks, but you’re not sure how you want the cuffs to look. Knit the socks, and decide at the end.
• If you’re not sure you have enough yarn for a project. If you start a pair of socks above the ankle and knit the feet, you can then go back and knit the legs deciding on length. Or even changing to another yarn at the same place.

Wondering how to cast-on provisionally? This video shows you three techniques.  They all work and help you knit happy!

One of my favorite stitch combos is the Basket-weave Stitch. I couldn’t believe that something so pretty was SO simple! The Basket-weave Stitch is a great stitch to add a little extra flair to some of the more commonly knit objects, like scarves, and adds great texture without adding extra thickness.

All there is to the Basket-weave is switching between Garter Stitch and Stockinette Stitch.

To start the Basket-weave, you’ll want to Cast On in a multiple of 8 stitches (I suggest against a variegated yarn, as it can look a bit too busy. Some variegated yarns that are different shades and values of a single color can work, but you have to be careful.).

Row 1: Knit all stitches.

Row 2: Knit 4, Purl 4, Repeat until end of row.

Row 3: Knit all stitches.

Rows 5 and 7: repeat row 2

Rows 4, 6, and 8: knit all stitches.

Row 9: Purl 4, Knit 4 Repeat until end of row.

Row 10: Knit all stitches.

Rows 11, 13, and 15: Repeat row 9.

Rows 12, 14: Knit all stitches.

Row 16: Repeat Row 2.

Continue the repetition until your project is complete! Yes- it is that easy!

It may seem like an advanced move, but knitting in the round can be mastered by beginner knitters with ease. And by adding it to your knitting bag of tricks, you will open up an entirely new world – one of hats, sweaters, and socks!

Getting started with knitting in the round can seem tricky on the best of days, but with just a few tips and tricks you can be joining to work in the round in no time at all. When I began my circular needles journey, these four tips helped me immensely.

Trick #1 – Make sure your circular needle is shorter than your finished circumference. If you’re knitting a hat for a 20” head, grab 16” long circular needles. If you’re knitting a sweater for someone that’s 36” around, be sure you’re not using your 40” long needles. Seems self-explanatory, but I spent many frustrated hours fighting with needles that were just a bit too long for projects I was working on. When in doubt, go a bit shorter – you’ll never regret it!

Trick #2 – Cast on one extra stitch. When you join for working in the round, knit that last stitch you cast on together with the first stitch you cast on. You will have the correct number of cast on stitches, and you will have a much less noticeable join for your work.

Trick #3 – When casting on a large number of stitches, to ensure you don’t twist them (and create a Mobius on accident!) knit the first few rows of the pattern before joining. You’ll have a much clearer view of joining your stitches together, and you can use your tail to sew up that open spot later.

Trick #4 - Use a different color stitch marker to mark the beginning of the row. When you are using stitch markers to mark decreases, increases, pattern changes and the like be sure your “beginning of the row” marker is a different color, shape, or size. This will help you more easily distinguish it from your other markers.

With these four simple tips, you will find yourself knitting around and around before you know it! You can use this new-found skill to whip up some sweaters for all the folks in your life, hats to keep their noggins warm, and maybe even donate a few things to a local charity!

Rip and begin again.  First row, fine.  Second row, now what?  Google!

Found a good website with detailed info on how to convert my pretty textured pattern to work in the round.  Check it out on Knitting Daily. 

The basics for converting to a knitting-in-the-round project:

• Don’t cast on the “extra” stitches your pattern might call for.   
• You’ll only be working the stitches between the * and the semi-colon. 
• If the pattern calls for a knit, then purl it.  If it calls for a purl, then knit it.

So I grabbed my pattern and wrote out the instructions for the “wrong-side” rows. 

Following the original pattern on right-side rows and my new conversions on the wrong-side rows, I jumped in again and my little knitting-in-the-round project is turning out beautifully!

Now I’m thinking of all the cute purses and sweater bodies and caps I could start creating!

The first time I knit lace, I didn’t know it was lace.  It was a big project for a beginner: a Feather and Fan striped afghan for a dear lady who minded the cold.

Back then I thought lace knitting was old-fashioned and impractical. Like doilies knit with very fine yarn and needles usually by an elderly aunt. Carefully kept in a drawer most of the year, only brought out for special occasions: like during her visits! So, had I known, I probably would have not made that afghan. And missed out on making an elderly friend very happy.

Today lace stitches are incorporated into knitted articles as small as dishcloths and baby booties, or as large as afghans and shawls.  The patterns can be simple for beginning knitters or complex for the most advanced knitter. You can choose a pattern with a small lace trim, or one that’s all lace.

So, if you’re thinking of knitting lace, what are some tips for the novice lace knitter? Whether you consider yourself a beginner or an advanced knitter, before you cast-on for your lace project consider:

• Choosing your pattern wisely. I tend to divide lace patterns into two categories: those where the rows alternate between lace and straight knitting or purling — and those where every row is lace knitting. In general, the patterns with the alternate rows are less complex. If you’re starting a project with long rows like a shawl, consider how many stitches will be in the row. When you’re knitting long rows, you may want to choose a pattern with alternate rows. And if you prefer knitting to purling, when there are 500 stitches in a row even an experienced knitter may yearn for every other row to be knit rather than purled!

 

• Knowing how to read your knitting stitches. Reading your knitting is a lot like reading a book. Initially, you learn the letters (individual stitches).  With practice you learn to read words (groups of stitches making a pattern such as a leaf). Because lace patterns — with frequent increases and decreases — more likely result in dropped stitches, checking your work by reading the stitches saves time while reducing the frustration of repeatedly ripping your work and re-knitting.

 

• Counting early and often. Lace projects can be challenging. The pattern can be complex, or maybe it just takes more concentration than a non-lace project. And frequent interruptions can make even an experienced knitter consider an easy project difficult.  Double-checking your stitches by counting frequently can reduce the stress of a complex pattern, increasing your success.

 

• Looking closely at the pattern to make sure you can knit all the stitches. Lace stitches incorporate various kinds of increases, decreases, and may even have you knit or purl in the back of a stitch.  Feeling comfortable with all the stitches involved can make your knitting easier.

 

• Using a knitting lifeline allows you to partially unravel your knitting when needed without dropping stitches. Crochet cotton or embroidery floss are two favorites. You want a line that will easily slip onto your stitches without leaving fuzz behind. Two links you may find helpful:  a post on lace lifeline tips, and a video on using a lifeline (scroll down to the subsection Fixing Mistakes to find the video Using a “lifeline.”)  Bonus Knitter’s tips: Experienced knitters often choose white or natural (light beige or tan) thread or yarn as the lifeline. The lighter colors are less likely to bleed onto the lace fabric. And they avoid waxed dental floss because it can leave pieces of wax when it’s removed.

 

• Choosing a pattern that has either written instructions only or both written directions and a chart if you’ve never knitted from a chart before.  Written instructions allow you to learn to read the chart while you work, and help decrease mistakes when those symbols are confusing.

 

• Knitting a swatch first allows you to double-check your knitting gauge, and choice of yarn and needles.  Lace often has a three-dimensional aspect. You may or may not care for the way a particular yarn or size needle alters the pattern from the designer’s.  Knitting a swatch first can save you frustration because knitting a small swatch in the long run is easier than starting a pattern and deciding a few inches later it’s just not right.

Depending upon your situation one or more of these tips can increase your lace knitting success. ..and remember to Knit Lace Happy!

The other day, I was astonished at how passionately two knitters were debating.   Knowing both of them, it’s not surprising they were passionate.  What surprised me was the topic of their debate: knitted thumbs.  Each was absolutely convinced her favorite thumb was “the best,” and other ways of knitting thumbs just don’t fit right. It took the calming influence of another knitter to put the discussion in perspective. 

She noted while she preferred one type of thumb, her husband another. Perhaps, she calmly asked, it depends upon our individual hand shapes?  Or even what we do with our hands when we use the mittens? Maybe this is a case of individual preference?  Since I’ve usually made only one type of thumb for myself, this discussion started me thinking:  Just how many different thumb types are there? And are there times one would be better than another?

So, what are the types of knitting mitten instructions for thumbs?

Peasant Thumb: Often considered the simplest thumb to knit. Knit without a gore, or wedge-shaped insert, this thumb is often preferred when a complex color pattern is used. The peasant thumb allows the pattern to continue without interruption. The thumb is knit slightly into the palm, so the mittens are either left-handed or right-handed. There’s no adjustment in mitten width for the thumb. The thumb tends to be flat.

Peasant Thumb

Stitches for thumb gore

Side seam gore thumb

Normal gore fingerless mitten

Norwegian Gore Thumb: Knit with a gore and a peasant thumb, this thumb also interrupts the color pattern. In Norwegian mittens, though, this interruption is often incorporated into the color pattern. The mittens are either left-handed or right-handed.  While this mitten has a thumb gore, the mitten body continues above the thumb with the same number of stitches. This thumb also tends to be a flatter thumb.

Color pattern interruption for thumb gore

Norwegian thumb

 Many knitters view these as two types of thumbs (those with or without gores) or four types of thumbs.  

Do you have a favorite?

About the Author: Ina Gilmore

Ina Gilmore learned to knit as a child.  She enjoys sharing her knitting adventures, tips and techniques. You can find her online at her knitting blog, The Knitting Yarn, on Twitter at www.twitter.com/theknittingyarn, and on Ravelry as theknittingyarn.

The afghan she created is featured in the following video.  We hope to be able to select a best knitting project, given enough submissions, every three months.   If you’d like to submit one of your knitting efforts to our contest send a brief write up, including a bit about yourself, along with pictures to info@naughtyknitterz.com.

If your project wins we’ll send you your choice of coffee mug or tee shirt from our Naughty Stuff.  We will also create a video of your project or you can send your own video. Good luck!  Here’s is the video we created for the 2009 winner.