Time to switch ‘em up (by Debbie Purcell)

It’s that time of year again.  It is for those of us in the northern hemisphere.  It is not yet November and I’m sorry to say I had to turn the heat on in my house.

I’m somewhat frugal and try not to turn the heat on until at least November.  Yesterday I broke down and turned on the furnace because it was cold in the house.  In Boston we had our first brush with snow this past Thursday, burr!

I’m almost finished with my second market bag from the Naughty Knitterz fall knit-a-long event created by Gypsy for our Facebook group.  It was a wicked fun project for me.

The market bag pattern created by Gypsy is super easy to follow.   I made my two market bags using this red cotton yarn I found.  What a deal it was.  I paid $4 for a giant spool of yarn at my local Walmart.

It’s perfect for the bags I’ve made so far.  What else does a person do with that much red cotton yarn?  Look for a picture of my bag posted to the Facebook knit-a-long event.  I use my bag to carry the other canvas grocery bags I use.  It is perfect to then use to carry home the bread I buy.

My market bag has drawn some attention where I shop for my groceries.  One woman asked where I got the idea.

Now is the time of year I want some warm wool around my fingers so I’m knitting these Cabled Fingerless Mitts.  I found this cool pattern which I downloaded from the Pattern Share page.  I will be knitting up these gloves using the American Gothic yarn you can find on the Misfit Knitterz page.

I was apprehensive about using a yarn blend using pistachio, purple, mauve, and olive brown colors.   From the description I thought the yarn would be pretty but wasn’t sure.  I love it.

I don’t know what I was so concerned about.  All I can say is that the American Gothic yarn is absolutely beautiful.  How does Michele come up with these color blends?

I should know by now to trust any yarn she creates for Misfit Knitterz will be pretty.  This is a lady who taught us to dye yarn using Kool-Aid.

Look for an email coming soon announcing an end of the year deal on the new Misfit Yarnz page.  You should visit the page to see this funky picture slide Mike added which shows all the yarn available in an automated way.

The Needle Abyss

My apartment is littered with knitting needles. I have a single DPN on the desk, a circular needle in the kitchen (not really sure why, though….) and many, many needles in the Clover case in the coffee table cubby. This is not including, however, needles in use, the needles in my yarn baskets, and the needles in my KIP bag. Something definitely needs to change.
I remember buying the Clover needle case. ( http://tinyurl.com/3c7vj7r ) “Finally! I can keep my needles organized!” Haha- wow. If anything, this case has hindered my needle organization. It was great when I first got it- a full three months into my knitting career, when I had maybe five sets of needles. But now that I’ve squeezed as many of the smaller ones into the 2inches by one inch case, but I don’t think I could get another size 2 in if I tried- let alone all of my needles over a size 8. Now that my needles are scattered across my apartment, I think its time to get creative.
The ideas listed in this article are only those of my own- I would love to know what my readers are doing to tame their needles! Be sure to comment and share your tips!

• The quilter method:
o This idea is based on the pattern I found in the Stitch n Bitch Handbook. It is essentially fabric sewn with mini pockets in order of size. Pretty- but not the best if you are new to the sewing machine.
• The excuse-to-knit-something-easy method:
o This method can be quite fun if you’re in need of some method knitting. Cast on enough stitches to give you a knitted width of about 16 inches. Knit with a sturdy yarn in garter stitch until it’s as long as you need. Sew a button on the cast on end and make a loop on the bind off end to give you a way to close it securely. Then, just poke the tip of the needle in about one inch from the edge to where it is under about 3 stitches, then again at the other end to hold it together. Repeat as necessary, then roll up and secure with the button for easy storage. I got this idea from one of my paintbrush kits. This can work for straight needles and circular needles, but you might want to loop the cord of the circs so it doesn’t get caught on anything while rolling.
• The shoebox/memory box/photo box/you get the point method:
o This one is great for people who have lots of storage space and lots of needles especially in the same size. Now, when I say shoebox I’m not talking about the Shape-Ups box or an 8 inch stiletto box. (Though those would work fantastically for circs!) I mean more along the lines of those comfy, cute-flats-I wear-to-the-grocery-store boxes. You can get boxes that are already pretty in the scrapbooking sections of most stores, or you can decorate your own if you don’t like having a bunch of shoeboxes where people can see them (Just paint them with a water based paint or decoupage them!). Make one box for every 2 sizes or so. You can keep sets together with the tiny rubber bands you get for hair, chopstick holders, and attached point protectors for easier access.
• The what-most-of-us-will-probably-do method (also known as the buy it method):
o Just buy it! You can buy pre-decorated boxes, pre-sewn versions of the quilter method, or use an old scarf for the excuse-to-knit-something-easy method, assuming you have a scarf that is wide enough.

Remember- the knitter that organized knitter is the happy knitter. Knit happy!

How do you make Christmas stockings? (by Ina Gilmore)

When my friend Erika asked if I could design a Christmas stocking, I thought, “Why not?”  Why let something small—like never having knit one before—stop a knitting project? 

Deciding to start at the beginning with some basic research, I plowed into the project.  After studying Christmas stockings’ construction, I decided it wouldn’t be any harder than knitting socks.  And was pleasantly surprised to find they were easier to knit than I thought.

So just how do you make Christmas stockings?

1. Knitting Christmas stockings is very similar to knitting socks.  Yes, the original Christmas stockings were actually stockings children wore the rest of the year.  So, the overall pattern is roughly the same as a sock pattern.
2. Modern Christmas stockings tend to be larger than socks. Larger in diameter and leg length, although the foot is often knit shorter.
3. To hide the stocking stuffers from little eyes, their stockings are often knit in stockinette stitch rather than a lace pattern.  Stockinette stitch is also a traditional pattern for stockings.  Stockinette stitch even gets its name from knitting stockings.
4. Because most Christmas stockings are knit in the round, stockinette stitch is all knit stitches.  Many knitters prefer the knit stitch to the purl stitch.
5. If this is one of your first projects knit in the round, the yarn and needles are usually heavier than those used to knit socks to be worn.  This makes knitting Christmas stockings easier, especially if you’re not used to knitting with either a set of double-pointed needles or two circular needles.
6. Christmas stockings usually are knit from the top down, although there’s no reason they couldn’t be knit from the bottom up.  You might have to adjust a motif or graph if you’re knitting your sock in more than one color.
7. Because the stocking is for decoration, the heel usually looks squared and is often different than the main stocking color.
8. The toe is often the same contrasting color as the heel.
9. And left-handed knitters will be happy to note that Christmas stockings can be knit left-handed, too.  If the pattern has an asymmetrical motif, you may end up with a mirror image unless you reverse the graph.  The good news is most Christmas motifs are either symmetric or can be just as lovely as a mirror image.

So you can see that knitting Christmas stockings isn’t so complicated after all!  And they’re fun to knit, then display or give away.  There is a picture of the Victorian version of Christmas Stocking to the left on this page.  See all 3 designs on the Stocking Kit page. 

Keep knitting to your heart’s delight — or someone else’s…Ina

When you’re ready to try a Christmas stocking, check out the kits The Naughty Knitterz made from the patterns I designed.   Find all three kits at http://theknittingyarn.com/stockingkits.

Article Source: http://theknittingyarn.com/?p=2506

Summer-time knitting! (by Aubrey Mayes)

   

 

It’s that time of year again! Yes- summer! Know what that means? Christmas knitting! Yes, I know it seems like a long ways away, but I assure you, it’s closer than it seems.

There are only about 150 days left until Christmas, and that’s only 150 days to knit. If you are like me and panicking about the looming perpetual deadline, here are some tips for you.

1. Santa isn’t the only one that needs a list, and check it more than twice. I suggest making a master list with projects, then separate lists for yarn type, yarn color and needle size;  receiver personal information (age, measurements, favorite colors, fiber allergies), and completion status. Microsoft Excel is amazing for this. (openoffice.org has a free office suite that is compatible with any version of Microsoft Office. )
2. Knit a little every day. I have a bit of PADD, or Project Attention Deficit Disorder, so I have many projects going at once. I try to do at least a few rows every day. Need to fit a little extra time in? Well, a full article is coming soon about that, but here are some tips: I knit on the bus, in waiting rooms, and while watching movies, whether in the theater or at home. I also listen to audio books so I can enjoy my Harry Potter and fiber fun at the same time.
3. Stay calm, organized, and prepared. Now is the best time to stock up- grab some plastic storage tubs to keep FOs in (toss in some lightly scented soap bars to keep them smelling fresh!), and keep the project yarn together and separated from each other for quick and easy access. I mean, let’s face it- nothing kills motivation like having to clean. Store the needed needles with the yarn to be sure they are free for use.  Make photocopies of the patterns (esp. if they are from library books!) and store them with the yarn. Stock up on notions and post its (for tracking a place in a pattern).
4. Winter is the best time for yarn, so have fun with all of the fibers, colors, and textures! Step out of the sock box and test yourself. Learn something new, revive something old, and just have fun with it!

Happy knitting…err I mean Knit Happy!

 

   

Have you tried loom knitting yet – part 2? (by Jen Chambers)

Since Christmas is right around the corner, you might want to start now and try some loom knitting.

This is a fun project that is easy to complete and I think is the cutest thing ever!

The pattern is free at Provo Craft’s website.

The pattern calls for using a 12″ new sink plunger inside to give the snowman stability to stand.  I didn’t have this exact pattern when I made mine, but I did use a big zip top plastic bag full of beans to give the bottom round some stability.

I wanted my snowman to look a little fluffier, so I used one thread of white worsted weight yarn, and one thread of Fun Fur.  I held the 2 strands together as I worked the pattern.

I also used little Christmas light buttons I found at the craft store.  He needed a top hat rather than a knitted cap, which I found at the craft store in the doll making section.

Have you tried loom knitting yet – part 1? (by Jen Chambers)

It’s a whole lot of fun.

Sure it looks a little spooky and doesn’t resemble your pointy sticks at all.  How do you begin?  What will you make?

I found patterns by Googling loom knitting or circle looms.  There are quite a few patterns on Provo Craft’s website as well.

The different color rings are for different size projects.  Using the Lion Brand Knitfy Knitters the blue ring is for baby size heads, the Red ring fits kids, The Green ring for adult heads.  The Yellow ring is for even bigger projects, and I used mine to knit flat projects back-and-forth rather than in the round.

Here’s the basics….you begin by looping the yarn around each peg  going in a counter clockwise pattern wrapping the pegs one at a time.  Once you’ve wrapped each peg with a loop one time, then repeat and put a second loop around each peg.  After this, use the hook that comes with loom and pull the loop on the bottom of each peg up and over and off the peg.  It’s the same principle you learned when you learned how to bind off stitches. 

This will leave one loop on each peg.  Stop and re-loop each peg with a second loop.  Then repeat using the hook and taking the bottom loop up and over and off the peg.  As you do this, you’ll grow your project into a connected tube of knitting.

It’s very easy to create hats, scarves and other fun projects.  Look for part 2 of this article…coming soon!

Five tricks to using DPNs without pain (by Robyn Devine)

Picking up your first pair of double-pointed needles can be both incredibly scary and supremely exhilarating. To make something using them instantly makes one feel like an expert knitter but to charge forward and use them takes a fair amount of “yarn balls”!

While it can seem overwhelming – why did five of them come in the pack, how do I go from one to the other? – mastering them is much easier than you may think. All you need are a few helpful hints to get you pointed (HAH!) in the right direction. Here are five tips I’ve picked up along the path to mastering my DPNs.

Trick #1 – Be sure your stitches aren’t twisted before you join for working in the round! This same advice goes for knitting with circular needles – by twisting the stitches around the needles, you end up knitting a Mobius at best, and a hot mess at worst. Take a few extra minutes to be sure your stitches are situated properly before you begin, and you’ll have much fewer headaches as you knit along.

Trick #2 – To prevent the “jog” that happens when switching between needles, move your stitches from one needle to the other. Most first-time users of double-pointed needles will comment on looser stitches at the change point between their needles. To prevent this, simply knit the first stitch off each needle onto the last needle, rather than onto your new needle.

Trick #3 – Use three different colored needles so you always know where you’re at in your round (ex: red, then yellow, then blue, done. Yellow, then blue, then red, done!) One of the biggest mistakes I made when learning to use DPNs was losing track of which round I was on. By using different colored needles, I was able to track where I was at in the process and keep my rounds straight!

Trick #4 – When decreasing for a hat, the space between needles can count as a stitch marker! This equates to less stitch markers used, and an obvious point for decreases!

Trick #5 – If you have trouble joining for working in the round, cast on with two sizes larger of a DPN, and then switch all stitches to the right sized needles. You’d be amazed at how much more room you feel you have!

Test out these tips one at a time or employ them all at once and you’ll find your double-pointed knitting adventures becoming easier and easier!

 

Four Fabulous Tricks for Knitting in the Round (by Robyn Devine)

It may seem like an advanced move, but knitting in the round can be mastered by beginner knitters with ease. And by adding it to your knitting bag of tricks, you will open up an entirely new world – one of hats, sweaters, and socks!

Getting started with knitting in the round can seem tricky on the best of days, but with just a few tips and tricks you can be joining to work in the round in no time at all. When I began my circular needles journey, these four tips helped me immensely.

Trick #1 – Make sure your circular needle is shorter than your finished circumference. If you’re knitting a hat for a 20” head, grab 16” long circular needles. If you’re knitting a sweater for someone that’s 36” around, be sure you’re not using your 40” long needles. Seems self-explanatory, but I spent many frustrated hours fighting with needles that were just a bit too long for projects I was working on. When in doubt, go a bit shorter – you’ll never regret it!

Trick #2 – Cast on one extra stitch. When you join for working in the round, knit that last stitch you cast on together with the first stitch you cast on. You will have the correct number of cast on stitches, and you will have a much less noticeable join for your work.

Trick #3 – When casting on a large number of stitches, to ensure you don’t twist them (and create a Mobius on accident!) knit the first few rows of the pattern before joining. You’ll have a much clearer view of joining your stitches together, and you can use your tail to sew up that open spot later.

Trick #4 - Use a different color stitch marker to mark the beginning of the row. When you are using stitch markers to mark decreases, increases, pattern changes and the like be sure your “beginning of the row” marker is a different color, shape, or size. This will help you more easily distinguish it from your other markers.

With these four simple tips, you will find yourself knitting around and around before you know it! You can use this new-found skill to whip up some sweaters for all the folks in your life, hats to keep their noggins warm, and maybe even donate a few things to a local charity!

Stitch Markers: A Knitters Best Friend (by Whitnee Humphrey)

I got a phone call the other day from my best friend. She asked if I could talk and that she needed help. I said sure and the first words out of her mouth were “my son has a giant head”. Naturally the first thing that goes through my mind is that this sweet little three year old has gotten his head stuck somewhere and she needs someone to calm her down while help arrives. Luckily this was not the case. It turns out she is knitting him a cute little hat and the pattern is too small for his giant head. My best friend has fairly recently begun to knit and has only done basic projects so she needs help modifying the hat. I whipped out the laptop, read through the pattern and told her exactly what she needed to do to make the hat larger. As I was reading through the pattern, I noticed that there was a pattern repeat. I explained that it would be wise to learn to use stitch markers for this pattern or she might just end up with a few gray hairs!

Stitch markers are a wonderful invention. They have kept me sane through a few projects, as well as made them fly by that much faster. Before the phone call from my best friend, I had never really thought about people not knowing what stitch markers were used for. I taught myself to knit from a book and they were discussed in there. I have taught several people to knit and I don’t believe I have ever once covered stitch markers in any of my lessons. Now I realize this was terrible of me!

Are all stitch markers created equal? No! There is the obvious difference between larger and smaller markers. Larger markers fit on larger needles. And yes you can use the larger markers on smaller needles, but be careful as big markers on small needles with small yarn can equal a big gap in the knitting.  A friend of mine, who used to own a yarn shop, taught me something wonderful to use for stitch markers: baby hair bands. These look like those rubber bands that you use on braces. They are multicolored and I believe they can be found in the toddler area, with the rest of the little girl hair accessories. The bands that I bought came separated by color in a plastic container. They are not sticky feeling like regular rubber bands so they don’t get stuck in the yarn. These do not create holes at all. I do find though that when I am working with a heavier yarn, I like a thicker marker.  There are also split markers which can be used like a regular marker but they can also be used to mark a stitch in the actual body of whatever you are knitting.

Stitch markers do not have to be used only when the pattern calls for them. You can use them any time you want to mark a stitch or a group of stitches.  The times that I most commonly use them are:

• Any time there is a large number of stitches. You can break down that 400 stitch count into a smaller, more manageable number. This comes in handy when casting on or when you are KIPing and that wonderful friend of yours decides to count by tens while you are trying to double check your stitch count causing you to have to start over again and again.
• Pattern repeats. *K1, P4 , K1* Repeat across row. By marking each repeat, you don’t have to wait till the end of the row to realize that you are one stitch off at the very beginning of the row. Tink, tink, tink. When you get to the end of that particular repeat, you should know that you are off. I found this saved me from pulling my hair out when knitting lace.
• Places you want to keep an eye on. For me this is usually the borders. I am knitting a scarf for my mother right now that has a 4 stitch seed stitch border on each side. If I don’t mark the stitch, sometimes I will get going and not realize that the first stitch needs to be a purl instead of a knit. It may be only one little stitch, but it still takes time to tink and then correct.
• Measuring length. Knit 4 inches ST st, increasing on each side on even rows. Then knit another 4 rows of ST st with no increasing. Where do you measure from? Sometimes it is hard to tell which row to measure from. If you mark that with a split marker in the middle of the row, it will be much easier to measure from.

So why use stitch markers? Because they can save you a lot of time in your knitting and keep you sane!

You’ll find colored rubber stitch markers (pictured above) in the ACCESSORIES section of the KNIT SHOPPE under the NAUGHTY STUFF page!

Easter Knitting: 9 Free Online Patterns (by Ina Gilmore)

Are you considering making a unique Easter basket for a special child?  To get your ideas flowing, here are 9 free online patterns for bunnies, chicks, eggs, and even Easter baskets.

1. Pocket Bunny for beginning knitters.  At 5-inches long this cute bunny can fit in a pocket. It’s is made from a garter stitch square, folded and stuffed.  The Lion Brand Yarn site requires sign in, however an account is free!
2. Cuddly Bunny listed as easy (advanced beginner) by Lion Brand Yarn. This bunny is larger at 12 inches and fuzzy. While the Lion Brand Tiffany yarn is not available as of this writing, the website lists alternatives that sound soft and cuddly.
3. Easter Bunny for intermediate knitters is about 20 inches tall. This bunny from Berroco Yarn has an adorable pocket for added treats.
4. Easter Peeps: These cute ducklings would make great additions to any Easter basket.  And the come with a surprise! At the end of the pattern there are directions for making chicks and even a bunny from the same pattern!
5. Knitted Felted Basket and Crocheted Chicks: A felted basket for your Easter treats, and soft crocheted chicks are both in this free pattern from Berroco Yarn.
6. Felted Easter Basket with Handle: Traditional round basket, which is knit and then felted. The pieces are separately knit, felted and then sewn together.
7. Round and Oblong Easter Baskets with Handles: This pattern uses blocks of stockinette stitch (a basket stitch variation) to simulate woven baskets.
8. Easter Eggs reminiscent of Ukrainian eggs. These eggs are knit flat and then sewn into shape. The instructions include pattern charts. And they’d be adorable knit in solid colors too.
9. Sock Yarn Easter Eggs:  Use your leftover sock yarn to make these colorful eggs. They’re knit on double pointed needles, and stuffed as you knit.

So, whether you want to tackle a whole basket, or just an Easter egg, you can knit treasures. You could even choose one pattern at a time, knitting a yearly tradition.  For Easter as always, remember to Knit Happy!

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