Five tricks to using DPNs without pain (by Robyn Devine)

Picking up your first pair of double-pointed needles can be both incredibly scary and supremely exhilarating. To make something using them instantly makes one feel like an expert knitter but to charge forward and use them takes a fair amount of “yarn balls”!

While it can seem overwhelming – why did five of them come in the pack, how do I go from one to the other? – mastering them is much easier than you may think. All you need are a few helpful hints to get you pointed (HAH!) in the right direction. Here are five tips I’ve picked up along the path to mastering my DPNs.

Trick #1 – Be sure your stitches aren’t twisted before you join for working in the round! This same advice goes for knitting with circular needles – by twisting the stitches around the needles, you end up knitting a Mobius at best, and a hot mess at worst. Take a few extra minutes to be sure your stitches are situated properly before you begin, and you’ll have much fewer headaches as you knit along.

Trick #2 – To prevent the “jog” that happens when switching between needles, move your stitches from one needle to the other. Most first-time users of double-pointed needles will comment on looser stitches at the change point between their needles. To prevent this, simply knit the first stitch off each needle onto the last needle, rather than onto your new needle.

Trick #3 – Use three different colored needles so you always know where you’re at in your round (ex: red, then yellow, then blue, done. Yellow, then blue, then red, done!) One of the biggest mistakes I made when learning to use DPNs was losing track of which round I was on. By using different colored needles, I was able to track where I was at in the process and keep my rounds straight!

Trick #4 – When decreasing for a hat, the space between needles can count as a stitch marker! This equates to less stitch markers used, and an obvious point for decreases!

Trick #5 – If you have trouble joining for working in the round, cast on with two sizes larger of a DPN, and then switch all stitches to the right sized needles. You’d be amazed at how much more room you feel you have!

Test out these tips one at a time or employ them all at once and you’ll find your double-pointed knitting adventures becoming easier and easier!

 

Stitch Markers: A Knitters Best Friend (by Whitnee Humphrey)

I got a phone call the other day from my best friend. She asked if I could talk and that she needed help. I said sure and the first words out of her mouth were “my son has a giant head”. Naturally the first thing that goes through my mind is that this sweet little three year old has gotten his head stuck somewhere and she needs someone to calm her down while help arrives. Luckily this was not the case. It turns out she is knitting him a cute little hat and the pattern is too small for his giant head. My best friend has fairly recently begun to knit and has only done basic projects so she needs help modifying the hat. I whipped out the laptop, read through the pattern and told her exactly what she needed to do to make the hat larger. As I was reading through the pattern, I noticed that there was a pattern repeat. I explained that it would be wise to learn to use stitch markers for this pattern or she might just end up with a few gray hairs!

Stitch markers are a wonderful invention. They have kept me sane through a few projects, as well as made them fly by that much faster. Before the phone call from my best friend, I had never really thought about people not knowing what stitch markers were used for. I taught myself to knit from a book and they were discussed in there. I have taught several people to knit and I don’t believe I have ever once covered stitch markers in any of my lessons. Now I realize this was terrible of me!

Are all stitch markers created equal? No! There is the obvious difference between larger and smaller markers. Larger markers fit on larger needles. And yes you can use the larger markers on smaller needles, but be careful as big markers on small needles with small yarn can equal a big gap in the knitting.  A friend of mine, who used to own a yarn shop, taught me something wonderful to use for stitch markers: baby hair bands. These look like those rubber bands that you use on braces. They are multicolored and I believe they can be found in the toddler area, with the rest of the little girl hair accessories. The bands that I bought came separated by color in a plastic container. They are not sticky feeling like regular rubber bands so they don’t get stuck in the yarn. These do not create holes at all. I do find though that when I am working with a heavier yarn, I like a thicker marker.  There are also split markers which can be used like a regular marker but they can also be used to mark a stitch in the actual body of whatever you are knitting.

Stitch markers do not have to be used only when the pattern calls for them. You can use them any time you want to mark a stitch or a group of stitches.  The times that I most commonly use them are:

• Any time there is a large number of stitches. You can break down that 400 stitch count into a smaller, more manageable number. This comes in handy when casting on or when you are KIPing and that wonderful friend of yours decides to count by tens while you are trying to double check your stitch count causing you to have to start over again and again.
• Pattern repeats. *K1, P4 , K1* Repeat across row. By marking each repeat, you don’t have to wait till the end of the row to realize that you are one stitch off at the very beginning of the row. Tink, tink, tink. When you get to the end of that particular repeat, you should know that you are off. I found this saved me from pulling my hair out when knitting lace.
• Places you want to keep an eye on. For me this is usually the borders. I am knitting a scarf for my mother right now that has a 4 stitch seed stitch border on each side. If I don’t mark the stitch, sometimes I will get going and not realize that the first stitch needs to be a purl instead of a knit. It may be only one little stitch, but it still takes time to tink and then correct.
• Measuring length. Knit 4 inches ST st, increasing on each side on even rows. Then knit another 4 rows of ST st with no increasing. Where do you measure from? Sometimes it is hard to tell which row to measure from. If you mark that with a split marker in the middle of the row, it will be much easier to measure from.

So why use stitch markers? Because they can save you a lot of time in your knitting and keep you sane!

You’ll find colored rubber stitch markers (pictured above) in the ACCESSORIES section of the KNIT SHOPPE under the NAUGHTY STUFF page!

Process Knitting (by Mary Fran Riley)

There are many ways to approach knitting.  Making finished objects,  making hundreds of swatches to learn various techniques and knitting for the process.

I love a beautiful hand knit project as much as the next gal (or guy).  I really do!   I have three sweaters on needles, a pair of slippers begging to be sewn together and felted, a pattern waiting to be typed and yarn for about ten other specific projects calling my name.   I am a process knitter.  What’s that?  I knit because I love the action of knitting and not for the contentment of completing finished pieces.

When I knit I become part of what I am knitting. It is a movement and a flow. The knitting itself is the point, not the finished product. It is about a connection I get to a project.  It’s about the satisfaction I get using my hands to create something.   A kind of satisfaction I don’t get from my creative industry job.  It is a break from the sterility of computers and the perfection they give.

I have a short attention span and always get bored with a project long before it’s done.  Including hats.  After I have experienced the best there is about a pattern, I am ready to move on. I usually finish hats when I run out of short circular needles and need them for another project that I so very much need to knit.

I always have my knitting with me and knit every chance I get – air planes, trains and cars are my friends.  Long boring meetings and college classes provide great opportunities for me to knit away!

My aversion to getting to the end of a project might be because of my deadline driven professional life.  Sometimes it’s just nice to create and not have the pressure hanging over the process.  Sometimes I feel I should be creating better goals for myself and try to finish more of my projects.  I’m afraid that by doing this I will taint my pure connection to the act of knitting.  I will turn knitting into a task that is always looming.

So, I will continue on my path to knit with every type of fiber that I can find followed by an attempt to learn as many techniques and stitches along the way.  Maybe, just maybe, all of this will end up in a higher project completion rate for me.  Maybe it won’t and I am ok with that too.

I am certain I’m not the only knitter out there who knits for its calming effects.   I hope I am not the only person who knits just to knit and not to make a finished work piece.

Seven Tips for Lace Knitting (by Ina Gilmore)

 

The first time I knit lace, I didn’t know it was lace.  It was a big project for a beginner: a Feather and Fan striped afghan for a dear lady who minded the cold.

Back then I thought lace knitting was old-fashioned and impractical. Like doilies knit with very fine yarn and needles usually by an elderly aunt. Carefully kept in a drawer most of the year, only brought out for special occasions: like during her visits! So, had I known, I probably would have not made that afghan. And missed out on making an elderly friend very happy.

Today lace stitches are incorporated into knitted articles as small as dishcloths and baby booties, or as large as afghans and shawls.  The patterns can be simple for beginning knitters or complex for the most advanced knitter. You can choose a pattern with a small lace trim, or one that’s all lace.

So, if you’re thinking of knitting lace, what are some tips for the novice lace knitter? Whether you consider yourself a beginner or an advanced knitter, before you cast-on for your lace project consider:

• Choosing your pattern wisely. I tend to divide lace patterns into two categories: those where the rows alternate between lace and straight knitting or purling — and those where every row is lace knitting. In general, the patterns with the alternate rows are less complex. If you’re starting a project with long rows like a shawl, consider how many stitches will be in the row. When you’re knitting long rows, you may want to choose a pattern with alternate rows. And if you prefer knitting to purling, when there are 500 stitches in a row even an experienced knitter may yearn for every other row to be knit rather than purled!

 

• Knowing how to read your knitting stitches. Reading your knitting is a lot like reading a book. Initially, you learn the letters (individual stitches).  With practice you learn to read words (groups of stitches making a pattern such as a leaf). Because lace patterns — with frequent increases and decreases — more likely result in dropped stitches, checking your work by reading the stitches saves time while reducing the frustration of repeatedly ripping your work and re-knitting.

 

• Counting early and often. Lace projects can be challenging. The pattern can be complex, or maybe it just takes more concentration than a non-lace project. And frequent interruptions can make even an experienced knitter consider an easy project difficult.  Double-checking your stitches by counting frequently can reduce the stress of a complex pattern, increasing your success.

 

• Looking closely at the pattern to make sure you can knit all the stitches. Lace stitches incorporate various kinds of increases, decreases, and may even have you knit or purl in the back of a stitch.  Feeling comfortable with all the stitches involved can make your knitting easier.

 

• Using a knitting lifeline allows you to partially unravel your knitting when needed without dropping stitches. Crochet cotton or embroidery floss are two favorites. You want a line that will easily slip onto your stitches without leaving fuzz behind. Two links you may find helpful:  a post on lace lifeline tips, and a video on using a lifeline (scroll down to the subsection Fixing Mistakes to find the video Using a “lifeline.”)  Bonus Knitter’s tips: Experienced knitters often choose white or natural (light beige or tan) thread or yarn as the lifeline. The lighter colors are less likely to bleed onto the lace fabric. And they avoid waxed dental floss because it can leave pieces of wax when it’s removed.

 

• Choosing a pattern that has either written instructions only or both written directions and a chart if you’ve never knitted from a chart before.  Written instructions allow you to learn to read the chart while you work, and help decrease mistakes when those symbols are confusing.

 

• Knitting a swatch first allows you to double-check your knitting gauge, and choice of yarn and needles.  Lace often has a three-dimensional aspect. You may or may not care for the way a particular yarn or size needle alters the pattern from the designer’s.  Knitting a swatch first can save you frustration because knitting a small swatch in the long run is easier than starting a pattern and deciding a few inches later it’s just not right.

Depending upon your situation one or more of these tips can increase your lace knitting success. ..and remember to Knit Lace Happy!

   

How a Spinning Wheel Works (video)

The Naughty Knitterz Spin & Grin topic category is all about spinning fiber into yarn.  There are a variety of spinning wheels.  If you want to learn about spinning it’s important to understand how a spinning wheel works.  This video does a great job of explaining not only how a spinning wheel works but also describes its parts.  Having a basic understanding of spinning wheel mechanics will help give you an initial understanding of spinning fiber into yarn.  

In this 10 1/2 minute video Sue Macniven shows a saxony wheel, its various parts and how to adjust a scotch tension. In depth look at how to work out the ratios.

How to Double Crochet (video by Carissa Haning)

Do you know how to crochet?  How about how to do a double crochet stitch?  This instructional video was created for the Naughty Knitterz to teach those who want to learn about the double crochet stitch.

This easy to follow video is one in a series of videos posted on the Naughty Knitterz website under the Happy Hookers category to help you learn the art of crocheting.  Thanks for watching. Let us know what you think.  Enjoy!

Knitting A Baby Sweater – Part Two (by Robyn Devine)

Here we go with the second half of our Knitting A Baby Sweater post.  Hopefully you’ve completed part one and you’re ready to finish your sweater. 

Now that you’ve got the yoke of your sweater done you’re ready to start working on the sleeves and the lower body.  As tricky as some of these instructions may seem I promise they’ll go just as fast as the yoke part of the sweater.

First up is dividing for the sleeves and body. What I love about a pattern like this is that you knit the sleeves in the midst of knitting the body so there’s truly no seaming to be done. According to the directions you knit through the first 22 stitches and then put them on a spare needle, a stitch holder or some yarn. For this I just leave the stitches on the needle.  Once you start working on the sleeve it’s pretty clear which stitches are which and then you don’t have to futz with any extra tools.

Follow the directions for the sleeve: knit a row, purl a row, continue along until you decrease.  You already know how to do this thanks to the first half of the sweater!   Then knit seven rows in stockinette stitch. Bind off to the last stitch leaving the loop free for seaming up the sleeve.

It should look something like this:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Now fold the sleeve in half, as seen in the photo below, with the right sides together. You’ll be grabbing a crochet hook (I use size “I” for this) to slip stitch up the sleeve.  To slip stitch in crochet, insert your hook through one stitch on either side of the sleeve and wrap the yarn around the crochet hook, from back to front.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Pull the hook (with the yarn wrapped around it) through all three stitches you now have on your needle

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

and you’ve got yourself a slipped stitch!

Continue like this all the way down the side of the sleeve, until you come to the armpit of the sleeve. You should have one stitch left on the crochet hook and see a bit of space between the needles and where the arm should join the sweater.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

To get rid of what will end up being holes in the armpits I simply pick up a few stitches before I move on.  This isn’t in the instructions but it helps get rid of those holes that will otherwise show up and we’ll get rid of those extra stitches later on! 

To pick up stitches, simply insert your right needle into a free spot between it and the sleeve. Do this twice and then slip the stitch off the crochet hook and onto the right needle.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Pick up two more stitches between the sleeve and the left needle (using the right needle again) and then knit across the back stitches. Repeat this same “sleeve making process” for the other sleeve and finish knitting across the row.

The rest of the sweater is easy! You simply knit a row, then purl a row, until the sweater is long enough that you want to add the bottom edge on. If you want to get rid of those four extra stitches under the arms simply knit two together four times around each armpit on your first knitting row after adding the sleeves.

The bottom edge of the sweater is simply a few more rows of garter stitch which should seem like a cake walk compared to all the new stitches you’ve now mastered.   All that’s left is to weave in the ends and you’ve got yourself a great new baby sweater!

Now if you’re anything like me you’ve already gotten addicted to it and you’re about to cast on another!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Don’t forget to make one or two and donate them to your local hospital – the babies will thank you!  You can also send your sweater to the Knit for Needs charity and Meridith will make sure it gets to a baby that needs a warm sweater.

Knit Like a Man – The Long-Tail Cast On (video)

How to knit a scarf (video)

In this video, we’ll show you how to knit a garter stitch scarf using bulky weight yarn. This is a good project for knitters who are just beginning. A scarf is a simple initial project, besides the infamous dish cloth, we encourage you to try if you’re starting out. A scarf is also something you can give as a gift. Give it a try.