Stitch Markers: A Knitters Best Friend (by Whitnee Humphrey)

I got a phone call the other day from my best friend. She asked if I could talk and that she needed help. I said sure and the first words out of her mouth were “my son has a giant head”. Naturally the first thing that goes through my mind is that this sweet little three year old has gotten his head stuck somewhere and she needs someone to calm her down while help arrives. Luckily this was not the case. It turns out she is knitting him a cute little hat and the pattern is too small for his giant head. My best friend has fairly recently begun to knit and has only done basic projects so she needs help modifying the hat. I whipped out the laptop, read through the pattern and told her exactly what she needed to do to make the hat larger. As I was reading through the pattern, I noticed that there was a pattern repeat. I explained that it would be wise to learn to use stitch markers for this pattern or she might just end up with a few gray hairs!

Stitch markers are a wonderful invention. They have kept me sane through a few projects, as well as made them fly by that much faster. Before the phone call from my best friend, I had never really thought about people not knowing what stitch markers were used for. I taught myself to knit from a book and they were discussed in there. I have taught several people to knit and I don’t believe I have ever once covered stitch markers in any of my lessons. Now I realize this was terrible of me!

Are all stitch markers created equal? No! There is the obvious difference between larger and smaller markers. Larger markers fit on larger needles. And yes you can use the larger markers on smaller needles, but be careful as big markers on small needles with small yarn can equal a big gap in the knitting.  A friend of mine, who used to own a yarn shop, taught me something wonderful to use for stitch markers: baby hair bands. These look like those rubber bands that you use on braces. They are multicolored and I believe they can be found in the toddler area, with the rest of the little girl hair accessories. The bands that I bought came separated by color in a plastic container. They are not sticky feeling like regular rubber bands so they don’t get stuck in the yarn. These do not create holes at all. I do find though that when I am working with a heavier yarn, I like a thicker marker.  There are also split markers which can be used like a regular marker but they can also be used to mark a stitch in the actual body of whatever you are knitting.

Stitch markers do not have to be used only when the pattern calls for them. You can use them any time you want to mark a stitch or a group of stitches.  The times that I most commonly use them are:

• Any time there is a large number of stitches. You can break down that 400 stitch count into a smaller, more manageable number. This comes in handy when casting on or when you are KIPing and that wonderful friend of yours decides to count by tens while you are trying to double check your stitch count causing you to have to start over again and again.
• Pattern repeats. *K1, P4 , K1* Repeat across row. By marking each repeat, you don’t have to wait till the end of the row to realize that you are one stitch off at the very beginning of the row. Tink, tink, tink. When you get to the end of that particular repeat, you should know that you are off. I found this saved me from pulling my hair out when knitting lace.
• Places you want to keep an eye on. For me this is usually the borders. I am knitting a scarf for my mother right now that has a 4 stitch seed stitch border on each side. If I don’t mark the stitch, sometimes I will get going and not realize that the first stitch needs to be a purl instead of a knit. It may be only one little stitch, but it still takes time to tink and then correct.
• Measuring length. Knit 4 inches ST st, increasing on each side on even rows. Then knit another 4 rows of ST st with no increasing. Where do you measure from? Sometimes it is hard to tell which row to measure from. If you mark that with a split marker in the middle of the row, it will be much easier to measure from.

So why use stitch markers? Because they can save you a lot of time in your knitting and keep you sane!

You’ll find colored rubber stitch markers (pictured above) in the ACCESSORIES section of the KNIT SHOPPE under the NAUGHTY STUFF page!

Knitting with wood, sticks & branches (by Knitting Doc)

My fifth birthday was quickly approaching. He kept calling them “knitting needles.” Some were brown and tan. Others, gray, black and very long. But the only needles I knew were the ones from the Dr.’s office which hurt.

Ah, Grandpap was my hero! What fond memories I have. My family called me a toe-head who was energetic, highly motivated and self-driven. For several years, I had watched Grandpap sit by the hour and move those hands so fast using roving and yarn from the sheep he raised on the farm. Being the eager little kid who always was curious and wanting to learn new things, I begged him to teach me to knit. It was one of those eye opening moments. He looked at me and just smiled in delight.

He grew up in Germany where all the boys and girls in elementary school were taught to knit as part of the normal curriculum. “Well,” he said. “I learned to knit when I was a boy so there’s no reason you shouldn’t learn how to do it too. It’s something that’ll help you and that you can do for the rest of your life. And don’t let anyone tell you that you can’t do it. So, let’s go do some whittling!”

At the time, I obviously didn’t get the full gist of what he was saying — five year olds aren’t fully aware of stereotypes. I just knew Grandpap could do no wrong in my eyes. If he taught me how to milk cows, ’slop’ the pigs, herd sheep, gather eggs and pull weeds, then knitting was no different.

Whittling? It all started to make sense. Grandpap whittled a lot. But Grandma said I was too young to be playing with a knife. I have vague memories of watching him whittle but never paid too much attention to it. Wow! When he said, “Let’s go do some whittling,” it all clicked!!!! All that time he was making his own wooden knitting needles. Not from dowels, but from wood, sticks, branches, etc. I still have that vivid image of us going to look for some wood to make me my own pair of knitting needles. He said he would have to make them bigger than his so that I could learn better. Since, I wanted to have the same ones which he had, I threw a little temper tantrum…..yuk! He was so loving and patient. “You’ll understand some day but it’ll be harder for you to wrap that sheep hair around the needle if it is too small.” And right he was!

Initially, Grandpap taught me to knit using the “throw” or English technique with very large needles in order to learn the mechanics and physics of knitting. Shortly, thereafter, I switched to Continental knitting so I could go “as fast as he could.” I remember the thrill of staying up late night after night practicing the long tail cast on for hours. I now laugh whenever I think of how frayed that precious yarn became after unraveling for the 10^th time.

Funny. I could relate to “sheep hair” as a kid. Roving and wool as more abstract terms came later. I had watched Grandma clean, card and spin the ’sheep hair’ many times but it wasn’t all that exciting to me as a kid. Now I long for those peaceful, loving moments spent with two wonderful people. Working with nature. Watching the lambs grow to adulthood. Shearing. Preparing the wool. Then using it to complete a garment to wear.

As I think about it right now, I was learning about life cycles. Biology, nature, mathematics, etc., all the while just thinking I was having fun with yarn and needles.

Fifty six years later I am still passionately knitting every day. I’ve weathered through some of those awkward years of being teased as a young man knitting. That stopped rather quickly after the bullies learned that I could do other “guy” things. Eventually, some of them asked me to teach them. Be true to yourself!

I’ve gone through the gamut of knitting throughout the years. Except for lace. Over the past several months, I’ve finally decided to go for it. Now I’m addicted to it. I didn’t know any better when I learned to knit and ended up cutting my own hair and trying to spin it. Guess I just figured that if it can be done with sheep hair then any hair will do! Sadly, though, I must say that after repeated attempts at learning to spin, I have never been able to do it. And it bugs me trying to figure out why! It looks so simple and smooth. Grandpap used to say, “Now just don’t worry about it. God will give you other gifts down the road.” How right he was.

It feels like Elizabeth Zimmerman and I were brother and sister. Having said that, “Knit on!”

Knittingdoc

Process Knitting (by Mary Fran Riley)

There are many ways to approach knitting.  Making finished objects,  making hundreds of swatches to learn various techniques and knitting for the process.

I love a beautiful hand knit project as much as the next gal (or guy).  I really do!   I have three sweaters on needles, a pair of slippers begging to be sewn together and felted, a pattern waiting to be typed and yarn for about ten other specific projects calling my name.   I am a process knitter.  What’s that?  I knit because I love the action of knitting and not for the contentment of completing finished pieces.

When I knit I become part of what I am knitting. It is a movement and a flow. The knitting itself is the point, not the finished product. It is about a connection I get to a project.  It’s about the satisfaction I get using my hands to create something.   A kind of satisfaction I don’t get from my creative industry job.  It is a break from the sterility of computers and the perfection they give.

I have a short attention span and always get bored with a project long before it’s done.  Including hats.  After I have experienced the best there is about a pattern, I am ready to move on. I usually finish hats when I run out of short circular needles and need them for another project that I so very much need to knit.

I always have my knitting with me and knit every chance I get – air planes, trains and cars are my friends.  Long boring meetings and college classes provide great opportunities for me to knit away!

My aversion to getting to the end of a project might be because of my deadline driven professional life.  Sometimes it’s just nice to create and not have the pressure hanging over the process.  Sometimes I feel I should be creating better goals for myself and try to finish more of my projects.  I’m afraid that by doing this I will taint my pure connection to the act of knitting.  I will turn knitting into a task that is always looming.

So, I will continue on my path to knit with every type of fiber that I can find followed by an attempt to learn as many techniques and stitches along the way.  Maybe, just maybe, all of this will end up in a higher project completion rate for me.  Maybe it won’t and I am ok with that too.

I am certain I’m not the only knitter out there who knits for its calming effects.   I hope I am not the only person who knits just to knit and not to make a finished work piece.

Seven Tips for Lace Knitting (by Ina Gilmore)

The first time I knit lace, I didn’t know it was lace.  It was a big project for a beginner: a Feather and Fan striped afghan for a dear lady who minded the cold.

Back then I thought lace knitting was old-fashioned and impractical. Like doilies knit with very fine yarn and needles usually by an elderly aunt. Carefully kept in a drawer most of the year, only brought out for special occasions: like during her visits! So, had I known, I probably would have not made that afghan. And missed out on making an elderly friend very happy.

Today lace stitches are incorporated into knitted articles as small as dishcloths and baby booties, or as large as afghans and shawls.  The patterns can be simple for beginning knitters or complex for the most advanced knitter. You can choose a pattern with a small lace trim, or one that’s all lace.

So, if you’re thinking of knitting lace, what are some tips for the novice lace knitter? Whether you consider yourself a beginner or an advanced knitter, before you cast-on for your lace project consider:

• Choosing your pattern wisely. I tend to divide lace patterns into two categories: those where the rows alternate between lace and straight knitting or purling — and those where every row is lace knitting. In general, the patterns with the alternate rows are less complex. If you’re starting a project with long rows like a shawl, consider how many stitches will be in the row. When you’re knitting long rows, you may want to choose a pattern with alternate rows. And if you prefer knitting to purling, when there are 500 stitches in a row even an experienced knitter may yearn for every other row to be knit rather than purled!

 

• Knowing how to read your knitting stitches. Reading your knitting is a lot like reading a book. Initially, you learn the letters (individual stitches).  With practice you learn to read words (groups of stitches making a pattern such as a leaf). Because lace patterns — with frequent increases and decreases — more likely result in dropped stitches, checking your work by reading the stitches saves time while reducing the frustration of repeatedly ripping your work and re-knitting.

 

• Counting early and often. Lace projects can be challenging. The pattern can be complex, or maybe it just takes more concentration than a non-lace project. And frequent interruptions can make even an experienced knitter consider an easy project difficult.  Double-checking your stitches by counting frequently can reduce the stress of a complex pattern, increasing your success.

 

• Looking closely at the pattern to make sure you can knit all the stitches. Lace stitches incorporate various kinds of increases, decreases, and may even have you knit or purl in the back of a stitch.  Feeling comfortable with all the stitches involved can make your knitting easier.

 

• Using a knitting lifeline allows you to partially unravel your knitting when needed without dropping stitches. Crochet cotton or embroidery floss are two favorites. You want a line that will easily slip onto your stitches without leaving fuzz behind. Two links you may find helpful:  a post on lace lifeline tips, and a video on using a lifeline (scroll down to the subsection Fixing Mistakes to find the video Using a “lifeline.”)  Bonus Knitter’s tips: Experienced knitters often choose white or natural (light beige or tan) thread or yarn as the lifeline. The lighter colors are less likely to bleed onto the lace fabric. And they avoid waxed dental floss because it can leave pieces of wax when it’s removed.

 

• Choosing a pattern that has either written instructions only or both written directions and a chart if you’ve never knitted from a chart before.  Written instructions allow you to learn to read the chart while you work, and help decrease mistakes when those symbols are confusing.

 

• Knitting a swatch first allows you to double-check your knitting gauge, and choice of yarn and needles.  Lace often has a three-dimensional aspect. You may or may not care for the way a particular yarn or size needle alters the pattern from the designer’s.  Knitting a swatch first can save you frustration because knitting a small swatch in the long run is easier than starting a pattern and deciding a few inches later it’s just not right.

Depending upon your situation one or more of these tips can increase your lace knitting success. ..and remember to Knit Lace Happy!

   

Keep It Organized (by Jen Chambers)

I guess it’s because of the new year and an easy time to make decisions for change, so now is the time to organize my knitting.

I have my box of FOs (Finished Objects) that I’m now whipping into shape. I’ve never kept a knitting journal and have always wanted to. So I gathered up a notebook, plastic page protectors and found a great Knitting Journal info page at KathrynIvy.com.  I have started getting organized.  I’m taking photos of my finished projects and keeping notes as to where the patterns are found.  I’m also keeping notes any changes I made as I knitted. I’m snipping bits of the yarn used in the project and taping it to the page so I can see actual color and feel of the yarn. I think this will be very handy on the projects I end up giving away as gifts.

This is a big improvement over my old system which was a scrap of paper here and there, notes stuck in my knitting bags and notes lying on the floor in front of the couch. Now I’ll have a good record of what I’ve accomplished and how each pattern was worked.  I sure wish I’d started this notebook sooner but at least it’s happening now.

I’m also making a copy of each pattern and keeping it with the journal page. Now I’ll be able to quickly start that project again rather than searching back through 50 knitting books and magazines to find the pattern. That will save me a lot of time.

As I go through knitting books and magazines, I’m making a copy of future projects I want to tackle. I have a Ravelry list of future projects, a file folder on my computer containing patterns I’ve downloaded and now a stack of projects I’ve copied.  Now I’m eyeing my stash and thinking of ways to get that beast tamed.

Keep on Knitting! (by Robyn Devine)

People often marvel that I’m able to complete as many knitting projects as I do. I didn’t think I was knitting all that much and then I started to add up what I’d gotten accomplished. From August until now I’ve finished over 50 items!

I haven’t always been this accomplished of a finisher but deadlines and a desire to push myself has proven very helpful. However, my strategy of being a stern, whip-bearing task-master, may not work for everyone.  I’ve come up with a handy list of five ways to finish more knitting projects.

Have a “project” bag you can take with you - Be sure you’ve got either a purse big enough to carry your project or a designated “project bag” you carry with you everywhere. This way you can knit while in line at the post office, while others are driving, while waiting for a child’s ballet class to get finished, etc. An extra five or ten minutes here and there will get you closer to your goal of finished knitting projects!

Keep it simple – This can mean knitting up a pair of stockinette stitch socks, letting self-patterning yarn do all the hard work for you or it could mean ribbed scarves. Figure out what you can knit blindfolded and let that stitch or project type dominate your “to knit” list. If you love to knit scarves then knit scarves.  You can give them to everyone for the holidays.  Don’t force yourself to knit items you’ll stress about and won’t enjoy!

Make it small – If you take a close look at the projects I’m finishing not one of them is large-scale. I don’t knit many sweaters and if I do they’re of the baby variety. Much of my knitting is hats, hats, hats. Many are for the One Hundred Hats project but I’m also getting into the habit of knitting hats for everyone around me. I’d love to be known as the hat lady passing out hats all year ‘round to friends, loved ones, and even strangers! By keeping my knitting small I’m able to bust through projects faster!

Keep a list – I find that I get more knitting done when I write out a list of what I’d like to accomplish. This works great around the holidays, or if you have several birthdays arriving at once. My “holiday knit list” has been a life-saver this season – I don’t have to wonder what’s next to make, I just consult the list! I’ve got everything from One Hundred Hats projects to gifts for friends and family added, so I’ve just been working down the list, one project at a time!

Set BIG goals – Sounds strange to “make it small” and “keep it simple” and also to set big goals but not to me! Deciding to knit One Hundred Hats was a huge goal and one I entered into quite lightly to be honest. I arbitrarily picked a number and a time-frame. It has really changed my life. I find I’m more goal-oriented now. I’m constantly thinking about my “main things” and I’m focusing my life around something I’ve become extremely passionate about.

People have asked me what I’ll do if I don’t make my goal. All I say is, “But I will make it!”!  That’s the only way I’ll allow myself to think about it. Setting this challenge is forcing me to focus.  My thinking about the best way for me to use my time has pushed me to not only knit One Hundred Hats but a lot of other items too.

Maybe you don’t want to set as big a goal for yourself.  Whatever goal you set for yourself be sure there’s a bit of danger to it.  You know, “Can I really do that?”  …and remember to always enjoy the ride!

Exorcising Color Work (by Aubrey Mayes)

I know from my experience and the experiences of knitters around me that color work has a lot of demons. All these fancy, demonic words, like Fair Isle and Intarsia can cloud a lot of really straightforward concepts. I know that even some veteran knitters don’t do color work, just because of how scary the prospect seems. Today, I just want to try to make it seem less scary. These tips are not advanced color knitting, just basic, beginner steps to the wonderful world of color.

            Let’s start with my personal favorite, Fair Isle. Fair Isle knitting is not only beautiful to look at, but can be really fun to knit once you get the hang of it. It does require a little more concentration than knitting in one color, but the finished object will be well worth it. I started looking for videos on Youtube, like I always do when starting a new technique, but I soon discovered that no one was really explaining it well. Sure, they made it look impressive and flashy, but it’s difficult to see the technique through that. I’m going a step further, to show the process, rather than the flash.            

            When knitting in Fair Isle, you need to remember a few things. Firstly, you should always use the Stockinette Stitch when knitting Fair Isle.  You will need a clear Right and Wrong side to your project. Secondly, you will need to remember that Fair Isle knitting should use no more than 3 colors, and, depending on yarn weight, only 2. Since the yarns are carried across the Wrong side, that side will become the back or inside of the object. If you have too many yarns carried across the back, the object will become heavy (and overly warm if it is a wearable object).

            Before you cast on, you have to know how to read your pattern chart. This is very simple. Use the key on your pattern for less obvious marks, like you would on a map. If there is only a difference in color, and there are only two colors, there will not usually be any specific markings. You will need to reference your key for additional color and stitch information when necessary. Unless otherwise stated in your pattern, you should begin your chart in the bottom right corner. Reading from right to left, look at how your row is worked, taking note of both color and stitch changes. Go on to the next row, reading from left to right, noting the same information, and that’s all there is to it!

            Now, cast on your project. Unless otherwise stated in your pattern, you will begin your chart on the row immediately following cast on. Follow your chart stitch by stitch. I have trouble sometimes remembering where I am on a chart, so I like to tick off every few stitches on my chart and sometimes, for short patterns, even right it out in numbers. For example:

                                    “Row 4: knit 8 sts in white, 3 in black, 8 in white.

                                                5:Purl 8 sts in white, 3 in black, 8 in white.

                                                6:K6W, 7B, 6W.

                                                7:P6W, 7B, 6W.”

            “But how do you add the second color?” This is where most people get skittish. Do not cut the strand of yarn on the first color. When it comes time to add the second color, make sure you are on a WS row. Simply let go of the first color, take the second color, leave a short tail, and simply use the new strand to continue knitting or purling the row. That’s all there is to it! That’s not so hard, is it? Then, when you need the first color again, let go of the 2^nd color and continue knitting with the 1^st, carrying it along the WS. (Make sure you carry on the same side when doing the knit AND purl stitch.) It will come quite naturally once you get the hang of it.

            Need something a little simpler? This next tip is just for you! Maybe you’re just looking to try some simple stripes, or even just starting a new ball of yarn. There are SO many different ways to do this- I’m about to tell you my favorite, and probably the most simple. Starting at the end of a row, leaving a short tail, snip off the first yarn. Make a slip-knot. (I like to do this by holding my left hand in front of me with my thumb up and index and middle fingers pointing to the right. Starting at the top, loop the yarn around your middle and index fingers once from back to front. Push the strand between your middle and index fingers inside the loop, pull off, and tighten. Voila, slip knot!) Slip the strand of the first yarn through the slip knot of the second yarn. Tighten. When tightening, make sure the knot goes all the way up to the needle, and that your new yarn is attached snugly.

            Key points for Color Knitting;

• Pay good attention to the chart and pattern for color AND stitch information.
• Always make sure the new yarn is joined snugly.
• Always add new yarn on the WS.
• Be sure to weave in all ends. I like to make a small knot on the WS before weaving them in if the FO will be used a lot.
• Remember that color work is only as scary as you make it.
• It may take a few tries to get it right, so don’t be afraid to frog it. Just make sure the 2 colors don’t get tangled.
• When carrying a color, make sure the strand doesn’t have to go too far unsupported.

 

I hope this helps you! Be sure to email me at thegypsy@naughtyknitterz.com if you have any additional questions!

 

 

   

The Manly Art of Knitting (video)

This is a witty documentary called The Manly Art of Knitting.  Here is an interesting video about men who enjoy the fiber art of knitting.  Although Naughty Knitterz currently has no male members (as of the posting of this video) we keep hoping for a few guys to join our circle.  We created the category “Guys Only” for just that reason.  This video is proof that there are men who knit.  We just don’t  know any personally.  We’ll keep trying!

Knitting A Baby Sweater – Part Two (by Robyn Devine)

Here we go with the second half of our Knitting A Baby Sweater post.  Hopefully you’ve completed part one and you’re ready to finish your sweater. 

Now that you’ve got the yoke of your sweater done you’re ready to start working on the sleeves and the lower body.  As tricky as some of these instructions may seem I promise they’ll go just as fast as the yoke part of the sweater.

First up is dividing for the sleeves and body. What I love about a pattern like this is that you knit the sleeves in the midst of knitting the body so there’s truly no seaming to be done. According to the directions you knit through the first 22 stitches and then put them on a spare needle, a stitch holder or some yarn. For this I just leave the stitches on the needle.  Once you start working on the sleeve it’s pretty clear which stitches are which and then you don’t have to futz with any extra tools.

Follow the directions for the sleeve: knit a row, purl a row, continue along until you decrease.  You already know how to do this thanks to the first half of the sweater!   Then knit seven rows in stockinette stitch. Bind off to the last stitch leaving the loop free for seaming up the sleeve.

It should look something like this:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Now fold the sleeve in half, as seen in the photo below, with the right sides together. You’ll be grabbing a crochet hook (I use size “I” for this) to slip stitch up the sleeve.  To slip stitch in crochet, insert your hook through one stitch on either side of the sleeve and wrap the yarn around the crochet hook, from back to front.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Pull the hook (with the yarn wrapped around it) through all three stitches you now have on your needle

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

and you’ve got yourself a slipped stitch!

Continue like this all the way down the side of the sleeve, until you come to the armpit of the sleeve. You should have one stitch left on the crochet hook and see a bit of space between the needles and where the arm should join the sweater.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

To get rid of what will end up being holes in the armpits I simply pick up a few stitches before I move on.  This isn’t in the instructions but it helps get rid of those holes that will otherwise show up and we’ll get rid of those extra stitches later on! 

To pick up stitches, simply insert your right needle into a free spot between it and the sleeve. Do this twice and then slip the stitch off the crochet hook and onto the right needle.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Pick up two more stitches between the sleeve and the left needle (using the right needle again) and then knit across the back stitches. Repeat this same “sleeve making process” for the other sleeve and finish knitting across the row.

The rest of the sweater is easy! You simply knit a row, then purl a row, until the sweater is long enough that you want to add the bottom edge on. If you want to get rid of those four extra stitches under the arms simply knit two together four times around each armpit on your first knitting row after adding the sleeves.

The bottom edge of the sweater is simply a few more rows of garter stitch which should seem like a cake walk compared to all the new stitches you’ve now mastered.   All that’s left is to weave in the ends and you’ve got yourself a great new baby sweater!

Now if you’re anything like me you’ve already gotten addicted to it and you’re about to cast on another!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Don’t forget to make one or two and donate them to your local hospital – the babies will thank you!  You can also send your sweater to the Knit for Needs charity and Meridith will make sure it gets to a baby that needs a warm sweater.

Not All Needles Are Created Equal (by Aubrey Mayes)

We’ve all been there. Perusing our LYS or hobby/craft store, our heart all a-flutter with the prospect of the new pattern we just found, looking for perfect needles. But what exactly is the perfect needle? How do you determine which set to buy? It may seem like an obvious answer for some, but these are actually some of the most repeated questions I receive. Just like you wouldn’t buy the first yarn you see, the same should go for the trusty needles you depend on for your craft. There are many types of knitting needles, and all have their merits- and downfalls.

When purchasing new needles, always be sure it is a brand you trust. If it looks like something that would crack under the pressure you would put on it, then it’s probably not a financially sound choice. Also, though they may be more expensive up front, they do make sets of interchangeable circs, and I must say that they are worth the money in the long run. Interchangeable circs come in virtually any size, are usually made of quality materials, and do not generally need to be replaced as often as others may need to.

The first kind of needles I bought for myself came from EBay- a nicely sized lot of various gauges of needles, all plastic, save for an afghan set- which only cost around $5, including shipping. These needles demonstrate the importance of quality when it comes to the material the needles are made from. Slowly, one by one, all but two pairs of those EBay needles have broken. The plastic used in the needles was very low quality, and it could not handle the strain of garter stitch coaster knitting, let alone anything that required a purl stitch. It was not until I was stranded in the middle of a project with one and a half size 5 needles that I realized the importance of quality.

            Not all plastic needles are poor quality. They are still not my personal preference, but they can be a little easier on the hands, and can come in handy when knitting something quickly, without dropping stitches. On the upside, plastic needles can be less expensive, and are definitely a good buy in a penny-pinch. On the downside, they can break very easily if they are very flimsy or have a small gauge. For instance, a size 2 may not endure as long as a size 10. When shopping for plastic needles, here are the things you should ask yourself:

• Is the plastic strong enough even in a small gauge to complete my project?
• Are the tips strong enough to not snip off as it enters a tighter stitch?
• They may be the best deal, but is the lack of quality worth the price drop?

Granted, just because they are plastic, it does not mean they will snap on their first project- to the contrary, many brands have high quality needles at low prices, just be sure you know what you’re buying.

            Aluminum needles are very popular with the knitters I have met. They usually cost a little more, but I must admit, I do love them myself. They generally have a long usage life, and are easily cleaned. They are also some of the best for knitting quickly, due to the slick surface. This quality can also be their downfall, as the slick exterior makes it easier to drop stitches, especially if you aren’t fully paying attention to what you are knitting (i.e. at a movie or a knitting circle) You can also not carry these onto an airplane or in federal buildings. When it comes to buying aluminum needles, I adore Susan Bates needles- not very expensive, high quality, and very durable. I also prefer aluminum needles when it comes to circs and DPNs, because it makes working in the round flow a bit better.  Here are some questions you should ask yourself when shopping for aluminum needles:

• Am I buying these needles to use multiple times, or for a single project? (Esp. helpful when looking at prices)
• Are these quality needles, or just showy?

 Bamboo needles are really having a heyday, and I must admit, I am an avid supporter of bamboo needles. For instance, bamboo replenishes itself quicker that other trees, so I don’t feel as though I am damaging the environment as much. They also allow for quick knitting, but without the tendency to drop stitches like aluminum needles do. They are also a lot easier on your hands than aluminum needles, which can be especially helpful if you are a knitter with arthritis or carpal tunnel. On the other hand, they can be a bit more susceptible to breaking, though bamboo is highly sturdy and dependable. Also, dogs are very prone to chewing on them, and that is one test they do not endure well (Ask my size 8s…).  When you go to buy bamboo needles, ask yourself these questions:

• Is this a respected and reliable brand?
• Is this something I can keep out of my pets reach?
• Is this brand an environmentally friendly choice?

Some helpful, general tips:

• Never buy needles you question before your project is cast on.
• Lowest price does not always mean lowest quality, and highest price certainly doesn’t mean highest quality.
• Don’t buy needles based solely someone else’s opinion or your own opinion. Always follow instinct, but don’t always allow your instinct to be driven by trends.
• Remember that needles are not only a financial investment, but an investment in your project. How can you expect a quality finished object if you are not using quality needles?
• Remember to always check gauge and length, whether the set is straight or circular.

 Happy knitting!

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