Beautiful Basketweave (by Aubrey Mayes)

One of my favorite stitch combos is the Basket-weave Stitch. I couldn’t believe that something so pretty was SO simple! The Basket-weave Stitch is a great stitch to add a little extra flair to some of the more commonly knit objects, like scarves, and adds great texture without adding extra thickness.

All there is to the Basket-weave is switching between Garter Stitch and Stockinette Stitch.

To start the Basket-weave, you’ll want to Cast On in a multiple of 8 stitches (I suggest against a variegated yarn, as it can look a bit too busy. Some variegated yarns that are different shades and values of a single color can work, but you have to be careful.).

Row 1: Knit all stitches.

Row 2: Knit 4, Purl 4, Repeat until end of row.

Row 3: Knit all stitches.

Rows 5 and 7: repeat row 2

Rows 4, 6, and 8: knit all stitches.

Row 9: Purl 4, Knit 4 Repeat until end of row.

Row 10: Knit all stitches.

Rows 11, 13, and 15: Repeat row 9.

Rows 12, 14: Knit all stitches.

Row 16: Repeat Row 2.

Continue the repetition until your project is complete! Yes- it is that easy!

 

 

Stitch Markers: A Knitters Best Friend (by Whitnee Humphrey)

I got a phone call the other day from my best friend. She asked if I could talk and that she needed help. I said sure and the first words out of her mouth were “my son has a giant head”. Naturally the first thing that goes through my mind is that this sweet little three year old has gotten his head stuck somewhere and she needs someone to calm her down while help arrives. Luckily this was not the case. It turns out she is knitting him a cute little hat and the pattern is too small for his giant head. My best friend has fairly recently begun to knit and has only done basic projects so she needs help modifying the hat. I whipped out the laptop, read through the pattern and told her exactly what she needed to do to make the hat larger. As I was reading through the pattern, I noticed that there was a pattern repeat. I explained that it would be wise to learn to use stitch markers for this pattern or she might just end up with a few gray hairs!

Stitch markers are a wonderful invention. They have kept me sane through a few projects, as well as made them fly by that much faster. Before the phone call from my best friend, I had never really thought about people not knowing what stitch markers were used for. I taught myself to knit from a book and they were discussed in there. I have taught several people to knit and I don’t believe I have ever once covered stitch markers in any of my lessons. Now I realize this was terrible of me!

Are all stitch markers created equal? No! There is the obvious difference between larger and smaller markers. Larger markers fit on larger needles. And yes you can use the larger markers on smaller needles, but be careful as big markers on small needles with small yarn can equal a big gap in the knitting.  A friend of mine, who used to own a yarn shop, taught me something wonderful to use for stitch markers: baby hair bands. These look like those rubber bands that you use on braces. They are multicolored and I believe they can be found in the toddler area, with the rest of the little girl hair accessories. The bands that I bought came separated by color in a plastic container. They are not sticky feeling like regular rubber bands so they don’t get stuck in the yarn. These do not create holes at all. I do find though that when I am working with a heavier yarn, I like a thicker marker.  There are also split markers which can be used like a regular marker but they can also be used to mark a stitch in the actual body of whatever you are knitting.

Stitch markers do not have to be used only when the pattern calls for them. You can use them any time you want to mark a stitch or a group of stitches.  The times that I most commonly use them are:

• Any time there is a large number of stitches. You can break down that 400 stitch count into a smaller, more manageable number. This comes in handy when casting on or when you are KIPing and that wonderful friend of yours decides to count by tens while you are trying to double check your stitch count causing you to have to start over again and again.
• Pattern repeats. *K1, P4 , K1* Repeat across row. By marking each repeat, you don’t have to wait till the end of the row to realize that you are one stitch off at the very beginning of the row. Tink, tink, tink. When you get to the end of that particular repeat, you should know that you are off. I found this saved me from pulling my hair out when knitting lace.
• Places you want to keep an eye on. For me this is usually the borders. I am knitting a scarf for my mother right now that has a 4 stitch seed stitch border on each side. If I don’t mark the stitch, sometimes I will get going and not realize that the first stitch needs to be a purl instead of a knit. It may be only one little stitch, but it still takes time to tink and then correct.
• Measuring length. Knit 4 inches ST st, increasing on each side on even rows. Then knit another 4 rows of ST st with no increasing. Where do you measure from? Sometimes it is hard to tell which row to measure from. If you mark that with a split marker in the middle of the row, it will be much easier to measure from.

So why use stitch markers? Because they can save you a lot of time in your knitting and keep you sane!

You’ll find colored rubber stitch markers (pictured above) in the ACCESSORIES section of the KNIT SHOPPE under the NAUGHTY STUFF page!

This Way or That Way? (by Jen Chambers)

Ever decide you want to work your favorite texture pattern while you are working in the round?  Well I did this past weekend.  So off I go and cast on the necessary stitches and get started…first round looked great, second round, not-so-much.  Now I knew in the back of my head that I should be converting something, I really hadn’t thought it through and the second row was all mucked up.

Rip and begin again.  First row, fine.  Second row, now what?  Google!

Found a good website with detailed info on how to convert my pretty textured pattern to work in the round.  Check it out on Knitting Daily. 

The basics for converting to a knitting-in-the-round project:

• Don’t cast on the “extra” stitches your pattern might call for.   
• You’ll only be working the stitches between the * and the semi-colon. 
• If the pattern calls for a knit, then purl it.  If it calls for a purl, then knit it.

So I grabbed my pattern and wrote out the instructions for the “wrong-side” rows. 

Following the original pattern on right-side rows and my new conversions on the wrong-side rows, I jumped in again and my little knitting-in-the-round project is turning out beautifully!

Now I’m thinking of all the cute purses and sweater bodies and caps I could start creating!

Process Knitting (by Mary Fran Riley)

There are many ways to approach knitting.  Making finished objects,  making hundreds of swatches to learn various techniques and knitting for the process.

I love a beautiful hand knit project as much as the next gal (or guy).  I really do!   I have three sweaters on needles, a pair of slippers begging to be sewn together and felted, a pattern waiting to be typed and yarn for about ten other specific projects calling my name.   I am a process knitter.  What’s that?  I knit because I love the action of knitting and not for the contentment of completing finished pieces.

When I knit I become part of what I am knitting. It is a movement and a flow. The knitting itself is the point, not the finished product. It is about a connection I get to a project.  It’s about the satisfaction I get using my hands to create something.   A kind of satisfaction I don’t get from my creative industry job.  It is a break from the sterility of computers and the perfection they give.

I have a short attention span and always get bored with a project long before it’s done.  Including hats.  After I have experienced the best there is about a pattern, I am ready to move on. I usually finish hats when I run out of short circular needles and need them for another project that I so very much need to knit.

I always have my knitting with me and knit every chance I get – air planes, trains and cars are my friends.  Long boring meetings and college classes provide great opportunities for me to knit away!

My aversion to getting to the end of a project might be because of my deadline driven professional life.  Sometimes it’s just nice to create and not have the pressure hanging over the process.  Sometimes I feel I should be creating better goals for myself and try to finish more of my projects.  I’m afraid that by doing this I will taint my pure connection to the act of knitting.  I will turn knitting into a task that is always looming.

So, I will continue on my path to knit with every type of fiber that I can find followed by an attempt to learn as many techniques and stitches along the way.  Maybe, just maybe, all of this will end up in a higher project completion rate for me.  Maybe it won’t and I am ok with that too.

I am certain I’m not the only knitter out there who knits for its calming effects.   I hope I am not the only person who knits just to knit and not to make a finished work piece.

Seven Tips for Lace Knitting (by Ina Gilmore)

 

The first time I knit lace, I didn’t know it was lace.  It was a big project for a beginner: a Feather and Fan striped afghan for a dear lady who minded the cold.

Back then I thought lace knitting was old-fashioned and impractical. Like doilies knit with very fine yarn and needles usually by an elderly aunt. Carefully kept in a drawer most of the year, only brought out for special occasions: like during her visits! So, had I known, I probably would have not made that afghan. And missed out on making an elderly friend very happy.

Today lace stitches are incorporated into knitted articles as small as dishcloths and baby booties, or as large as afghans and shawls.  The patterns can be simple for beginning knitters or complex for the most advanced knitter. You can choose a pattern with a small lace trim, or one that’s all lace.

So, if you’re thinking of knitting lace, what are some tips for the novice lace knitter? Whether you consider yourself a beginner or an advanced knitter, before you cast-on for your lace project consider:

• Choosing your pattern wisely. I tend to divide lace patterns into two categories: those where the rows alternate between lace and straight knitting or purling — and those where every row is lace knitting. In general, the patterns with the alternate rows are less complex. If you’re starting a project with long rows like a shawl, consider how many stitches will be in the row. When you’re knitting long rows, you may want to choose a pattern with alternate rows. And if you prefer knitting to purling, when there are 500 stitches in a row even an experienced knitter may yearn for every other row to be knit rather than purled!

 

• Knowing how to read your knitting stitches. Reading your knitting is a lot like reading a book. Initially, you learn the letters (individual stitches).  With practice you learn to read words (groups of stitches making a pattern such as a leaf). Because lace patterns — with frequent increases and decreases — more likely result in dropped stitches, checking your work by reading the stitches saves time while reducing the frustration of repeatedly ripping your work and re-knitting.

 

• Counting early and often. Lace projects can be challenging. The pattern can be complex, or maybe it just takes more concentration than a non-lace project. And frequent interruptions can make even an experienced knitter consider an easy project difficult.  Double-checking your stitches by counting frequently can reduce the stress of a complex pattern, increasing your success.

 

• Looking closely at the pattern to make sure you can knit all the stitches. Lace stitches incorporate various kinds of increases, decreases, and may even have you knit or purl in the back of a stitch.  Feeling comfortable with all the stitches involved can make your knitting easier.

 

• Using a knitting lifeline allows you to partially unravel your knitting when needed without dropping stitches. Crochet cotton or embroidery floss are two favorites. You want a line that will easily slip onto your stitches without leaving fuzz behind. Two links you may find helpful:  a post on lace lifeline tips, and a video on using a lifeline (scroll down to the subsection Fixing Mistakes to find the video Using a “lifeline.”)  Bonus Knitter’s tips: Experienced knitters often choose white or natural (light beige or tan) thread or yarn as the lifeline. The lighter colors are less likely to bleed onto the lace fabric. And they avoid waxed dental floss because it can leave pieces of wax when it’s removed.

 

• Choosing a pattern that has either written instructions only or both written directions and a chart if you’ve never knitted from a chart before.  Written instructions allow you to learn to read the chart while you work, and help decrease mistakes when those symbols are confusing.

 

• Knitting a swatch first allows you to double-check your knitting gauge, and choice of yarn and needles.  Lace often has a three-dimensional aspect. You may or may not care for the way a particular yarn or size needle alters the pattern from the designer’s.  Knitting a swatch first can save you frustration because knitting a small swatch in the long run is easier than starting a pattern and deciding a few inches later it’s just not right.

Depending upon your situation one or more of these tips can increase your lace knitting success. ..and remember to Knit Lace Happy!

   

Exorcising Color Work (by Aubrey Mayes)

I know from my experience and the experiences of knitters around me that color work has a lot of demons. All these fancy, demonic words, like Fair Isle and Intarsia can cloud a lot of really straightforward concepts. I know that even some veteran knitters don’t do color work, just because of how scary the prospect seems. Today, I just want to try to make it seem less scary. These tips are not advanced color knitting, just basic, beginner steps to the wonderful world of color.

            Let’s start with my personal favorite, Fair Isle. Fair Isle knitting is not only beautiful to look at, but can be really fun to knit once you get the hang of it. It does require a little more concentration than knitting in one color, but the finished object will be well worth it. I started looking for videos on Youtube, like I always do when starting a new technique, but I soon discovered that no one was really explaining it well. Sure, they made it look impressive and flashy, but it’s difficult to see the technique through that. I’m going a step further, to show the process, rather than the flash.            

            When knitting in Fair Isle, you need to remember a few things. Firstly, you should always use the Stockinette Stitch when knitting Fair Isle.  You will need a clear Right and Wrong side to your project. Secondly, you will need to remember that Fair Isle knitting should use no more than 3 colors, and, depending on yarn weight, only 2. Since the yarns are carried across the Wrong side, that side will become the back or inside of the object. If you have too many yarns carried across the back, the object will become heavy (and overly warm if it is a wearable object).

            Before you cast on, you have to know how to read your pattern chart. This is very simple. Use the key on your pattern for less obvious marks, like you would on a map. If there is only a difference in color, and there are only two colors, there will not usually be any specific markings. You will need to reference your key for additional color and stitch information when necessary. Unless otherwise stated in your pattern, you should begin your chart in the bottom right corner. Reading from right to left, look at how your row is worked, taking note of both color and stitch changes. Go on to the next row, reading from left to right, noting the same information, and that’s all there is to it!

            Now, cast on your project. Unless otherwise stated in your pattern, you will begin your chart on the row immediately following cast on. Follow your chart stitch by stitch. I have trouble sometimes remembering where I am on a chart, so I like to tick off every few stitches on my chart and sometimes, for short patterns, even right it out in numbers. For example:

                                    “Row 4: knit 8 sts in white, 3 in black, 8 in white.

                                                5:Purl 8 sts in white, 3 in black, 8 in white.

                                                6:K6W, 7B, 6W.

                                                7:P6W, 7B, 6W.”

            “But how do you add the second color?” This is where most people get skittish. Do not cut the strand of yarn on the first color. When it comes time to add the second color, make sure you are on a WS row. Simply let go of the first color, take the second color, leave a short tail, and simply use the new strand to continue knitting or purling the row. That’s all there is to it! That’s not so hard, is it? Then, when you need the first color again, let go of the 2^nd color and continue knitting with the 1^st, carrying it along the WS. (Make sure you carry on the same side when doing the knit AND purl stitch.) It will come quite naturally once you get the hang of it.

            Need something a little simpler? This next tip is just for you! Maybe you’re just looking to try some simple stripes, or even just starting a new ball of yarn. There are SO many different ways to do this- I’m about to tell you my favorite, and probably the most simple. Starting at the end of a row, leaving a short tail, snip off the first yarn. Make a slip-knot. (I like to do this by holding my left hand in front of me with my thumb up and index and middle fingers pointing to the right. Starting at the top, loop the yarn around your middle and index fingers once from back to front. Push the strand between your middle and index fingers inside the loop, pull off, and tighten. Voila, slip knot!) Slip the strand of the first yarn through the slip knot of the second yarn. Tighten. When tightening, make sure the knot goes all the way up to the needle, and that your new yarn is attached snugly.

            Key points for Color Knitting;

• Pay good attention to the chart and pattern for color AND stitch information.
• Always make sure the new yarn is joined snugly.
• Always add new yarn on the WS.
• Be sure to weave in all ends. I like to make a small knot on the WS before weaving them in if the FO will be used a lot.
• Remember that color work is only as scary as you make it.
• It may take a few tries to get it right, so don’t be afraid to frog it. Just make sure the 2 colors don’t get tangled.
• When carrying a color, make sure the strand doesn’t have to go too far unsupported.

 

I hope this helps you! Be sure to email me at thegypsy@naughtyknitterz.com if you have any additional questions!

 

 

   

Knit, then Purl, then back again (by Robyn Devine)

Just learning to knit, and feel overwhelmed by patterns that tell you to do such things ask “kfb”, “m1” and more? I remember the feeling well – I still sometimes have it!
But have no fear, beginner knitters.

There are plenty of patterns that call for no more knitting knowledge than casting on, binding off, knitting and purling. And with those few skills under your belt, you can make many a knitted item – possibly something handmade for the holidays?!

From scarves to hats (yes, hats!), from baby items to those for adults, and even a few for your home – here’s some of my favorite ‘easy peasy’ patterns for you to try!

Entwined - this great pattern gives you a scarf and hand warmers all in one!

Rockstar Scarf – easy peasy, all knit stitch, this scarf gets it’s drama from the variety of yarns used.

Waffle Stitch Dishcloth – looks harder than it is! This dishcloth uses only knits and purls to give it a great texture.

The Squidge Cloth – another one where the pattern is all knits and purls, I use this dish cloth all the time!

Calorimetry – looks so much harder than it is. Short rows are a new skill to be sure, but again, just knits and purls and you’ve got a great cold-weather headband!

Drops Headband – another great headband, this time ribbed.

Flat Hat – this is a great go-to pattern for flat-knit hats. You just knit up a big square and gather the top, and you’ve got a hat! Perfect for donation hats!

Baby Surprise Jacket – really Robyn? Yes, really. This jacket is knit flat, with knits, purls and bind-offs and then suddenly? You have a jacket! (Ravelry link)

Baby Bib O’Love – from Mason-Dixon Knitting, this bib is the perfect gift for any baby shower. (Ravelry link)