How do you make Christmas stockings? (by Ina Gilmore)

When my friend Erika asked if I could design a Christmas stocking, I thought, “Why not?”  Why let something small—like never having knit one before—stop a knitting project? 

Deciding to start at the beginning with some basic research, I plowed into the project.  After studying Christmas stockings’ construction, I decided it wouldn’t be any harder than knitting socks.  And was pleasantly surprised to find they were easier to knit than I thought.

So just how do you make Christmas stockings?

1. Knitting Christmas stockings is very similar to knitting socks.  Yes, the original Christmas stockings were actually stockings children wore the rest of the year.  So, the overall pattern is roughly the same as a sock pattern.
2. Modern Christmas stockings tend to be larger than socks. Larger in diameter and leg length, although the foot is often knit shorter.
3. To hide the stocking stuffers from little eyes, their stockings are often knit in stockinette stitch rather than a lace pattern.  Stockinette stitch is also a traditional pattern for stockings.  Stockinette stitch even gets its name from knitting stockings.
4. Because most Christmas stockings are knit in the round, stockinette stitch is all knit stitches.  Many knitters prefer the knit stitch to the purl stitch.
5. If this is one of your first projects knit in the round, the yarn and needles are usually heavier than those used to knit socks to be worn.  This makes knitting Christmas stockings easier, especially if you’re not used to knitting with either a set of double-pointed needles or two circular needles.
6. Christmas stockings usually are knit from the top down, although there’s no reason they couldn’t be knit from the bottom up.  You might have to adjust a motif or graph if you’re knitting your sock in more than one color.
7. Because the stocking is for decoration, the heel usually looks squared and is often different than the main stocking color.
8. The toe is often the same contrasting color as the heel.
9. And left-handed knitters will be happy to note that Christmas stockings can be knit left-handed, too.  If the pattern has an asymmetrical motif, you may end up with a mirror image unless you reverse the graph.  The good news is most Christmas motifs are either symmetric or can be just as lovely as a mirror image.

So you can see that knitting Christmas stockings isn’t so complicated after all!  And they’re fun to knit, then display or give away.  There is a picture of the Victorian version of Christmas Stocking to the left on this page.  See all 3 designs on the Stocking Kit page. 

Keep knitting to your heart’s delight — or someone else’s…Ina

When you’re ready to try a Christmas stocking, check out the kits The Naughty Knitterz made from the patterns I designed.   Find all three kits at http://theknittingyarn.com/stockingkits.

Article Source: http://theknittingyarn.com/?p=2506

Jelly Yarns (by Kathleen G)

 

Jelly Yarn®

• 100% vinyl

•  Fine Jelly Yarn 85 yds , Bulky Jelly Yarn 65 yds,  Super Fine Jelly Yarn 50 yds

•  Waterproof

•  Glow in the Dark, Black Light Reactive neon colors

• Gauge:

New Super Fine (thread weight)

Knit Gauge: (ktbl) 28 sts and 64 rows = 4″ – US 6 (4mm)

Crochet Gauge: (sc) 22 sts and 10 rows = 4″ – F (3.75mm)

Fine Jelly Yarn (sport weight)

Knit Gauge: (k) 24 sts and 40 rows = 4″ – US 6 (4mm) needles

Knit Gauge Double Strand: (k) 14 sts and 33 rows = 4″ – US10.5 (6.5mm) needles

Crochet Gauge: (sc) 16 sts and 10 rows = 4″ – US H (5mm) hook

Bulky Jelly Yarn (worsted weight)

Knit Gauge: (k) 14 sts and 32 rows = 4″ – US 10 (6mm) needles

Knit Gauge Double Strand: (k) 10 sts and 8 rows = 4″ – US 13 (9mm) needles

Crochet Gauge: (sc) 12 sts and 14 rows = 4″ – US J (6mm) hook

If you’re looking for something fun, colorful and unique to knit or crochet, think outside the yarn box with Jelly Yarn! But what exactly IS Jelly Yarn?

Jelly Yarn was developed by Kathleen Greco while writing her first knitting book titled, Yummy Yarns (Watson Guptill). She had an idea for a purse that when knit, resembled glossy black patent leather. Using her background in plastics, she was able to develop and produce the yarn she envisioned, and Black Licorice Jelly Yarn was born.

Bright colors named after candies and ices soon followed: Hot Pink Candy, Blue Taffy, Lemon-Lime Ice, Raspberry Sorbet, and Pink Peppermint Glow, just to name a few. There now are 13 neon, opaque, metallic, and glow-in-the-dark colorways.

Jelly Yarn is a 100% vinyl, solid round strand. It’s very flexible, waterproof and is formulated for knitting and crochet. This contemporary glossy yarn is ideal for fashion-fun knitting or crocheting for adults and kids. Patterns are available for accessories including: purses, handbags, beach bags, belts, bracelets, ornaments, hair accessories, toys, and coral reef projects.

Tips For Knitting or Crocheting with Jelly Yarn

• The best knit stitch for creating a flat texture in Jelly Yarn is the Knit Through the Back Loop stitch. 

• Metal needles or hooks are recommended when working with Jelly Yarn. Susan Bates® Silvalume® metal needles or hooks are preferred well because of the smooth satin surface, but any metal will work.

• To make your knit or crochet fabric more durable, carry along a strand of Fine Jelly Yarn with your fiber yarn.

• If your tension is too tight, your stitches may not slide on the metal needle easily. To help make the stitches glide easily, we recommend using a little hand lotion, Burt’s Bees Hand Salve, or Vinylex, vinyl protectant applied along the stitches on the needle or hook.

• Knitting or crocheting with Jelly Yarn is a little different then fiber yarn. Instead of weaving ends, make a double knot (square knot) to prevent the stitches from unraveling after the 1st cast on stitch, when joining yarns and, after binding off.

• Blocking Jelly Yarn is easy. Heat the piece, with a hair dryer on low, for a few seconds. Place the piece on a flat hard surface and make the sides even. Tape the edges of the piece to the surface (optional). Place a weight such as a dictionary or phone book on top overnight. Assemble as instructed in the pattern.

Jelly Yarn 20 Cool Projects for Girls to Knit & Crochet (Krause Publishers) features an amazing array of purses, jewelry, belts, pet collar, and other fun projects crafted with Jelly Yarns. http://www.jellyyarns.com/books.html

Bonus: The bright neon and glow colors are idea for kids to learn how to knit or crochet!

Burt’s Bees Hand Salve, or Vinylex free sample is included with Jelly Yarn purchase. There are many knit and crochet free patterns available on the Jelly Yarn website.

###

The Fiber Files (by Aubry Mayes)

It is my opinion that every yarn crafter should have what I call the Fiber Files. Whether its stored on a computer, in a recipe box, binder, or even address book, the Fiber Files are a necessary part of crafting for others. The Fiber Files contain vital information necessary to successfully complete a project.

Without this information, severe FO crises may occur, with symptoms including short sleeves, too small head-hole, or the dreaded socks that were made to have a 6 inch cuff that, well, doesn’t.

What should be in the Fiber Files?

• Name
• Age
• Gender
• Measurements
• Color Preferences
• Allergies
• Style

Name and age are the first steps to creating a proper Fiber File. Normally, I would suggest that date of birth would be better than age, but this is one place where I find it necessary to keep the number. This step will help to remind you to update your file at least yearly.

The gender listing in the file is strictly a formality. When it comes to crafting and gender, I don’t like getting into the messiness that comes along with it. Yarn crafting is such a feminine sport as it is, we really don’t need to muddy it up by trying TOO hard to find “manly” yarn. All that results is a brown sweater and some black socks.

Sure, gender is a fantastic way to search for a pattern, particularly when it comes to fitted garments. But, being a big girl, I know how hard it can be a to find a “girlie” pattern that doesn’t look like a knitted trash bag.

(Be sure to check out my upcoming article on how to get more girlie bang for a drab pattern buck.) So in simpler terms, be sure to mark gender, but don’t be afraid to cross lines. Its fun to be edgy.

Measurements are probably the most important aspect of the Fiber Files. As I say in my article, “Size Matters”, there are so many measurements that need to be taken in consideration. These are:

• Arm Length (shoulder to elbow, shoulder to wrist, shoulder to middle finger tip, elbow to wrist, and elbow to middle finger tip, as well as upper and lower arm circumferences, all in SUM*
• Standard Shirt Size
• Standard Pants Size
• Standard Shoe Size
• Hips, Waist, in SUM
• Leg Length, in SUM
• Bust (where applicable) in SUM
• Head & Neck Circumference in SUM
• Wrist to tip of middle finger in SUM

*SUM: Standard Unit of Measurement

 To accurately record color preferences, be sure to list both love AND hate colors. For me, I love my purple, but I hate hate hate that horrible brown color that seems to infest men’s sweater patterns in knitting books from the 90′s. By listing color preferences, it simply helps to assure you that your gift is a win.

Style is a similar aspect. Just by remembering that your niece is fashionista, or your son is a punk rocker and crafting accordingly, you can win major brownie points.

Finally, we come to allergies. This subject has arisen a lot in my articles. Personally, I am allergic to sulfates and metals containing nickel. While sulfates don’t usually pop up in knitting, nickel does A LOT. Buttons, zippers, pins, accents- if its not stated as being hypo-allergenic, then it should definitely be expected that it has nickel as at least one of the primary metals.

Wool allergies are also very common. Be sure to check on the allergies of the recipients, as we wouldn’t want to be responsible for health problems, nor would we want our beautiful creations to be discarded.

When it comes to storing your Fiber Files, be sure to keep them organized in a manner you will recognize, as well as a manner that can be updated easily. Some ideas could be:

• Each person on an individual index card in a recipe-type box
• Each person on their own page in a binder
• A separate computer file for each person, in a folder specific to relationship to you, first letter of last name, or any other organization method you can think of.
• A scrapbook page including a picture of each person with detachable pieces for the changing information.
• The possibilities are endless!

The hardest part will always be getting the information from the people themselves. My advice to you: Get it yourself. What woman doesn’t lie about her weight? What man will admit to having small hands? The best way to ensure honesty is to get it yourself.

Hold a party and invite everyone you need measurements from. Bait them with food, booze, movies, whatever it is that gets them to your house and get those measurements!

Measure happy, knit happy!

Choosing Yarn – Big Box vs. LYS (by Jenifer Rank)

What is the first thing to look for when choosing yarn?  Is it color, weight, feel?  Or is it the location that you purchase it from? 

There are basically three options if you want instant gratification and want to start your project immediately.  You can head to a local farmer’s market, a “big box” craft store – think JoAnn, Michael’s, Hobby Lobby, Wal-Mart, etc., or a local yarn shop (LYS).  What is the difference, really?  They all have yarn and a good variety of yarn at that!

So, let’s start with the largest of the options: the craft store.  This is a fantastic option if you are trying to a project on a small budget.  A ball/skein of yarn can cost anywhere from $2.99 to $10.00 – and that’s the maximum of the range.  There are always sales, and usually coupons. 

There is a wide variety of acrylics, wools, cottons, sequins, blends, eco-friendly, baby yarns, and sock yarns to choose from.  When I started knitting about ten years ago, you could basically get either acrylic or cotton yarns from the craft stores.  The stock (and quality of that stock) has improved drastically in the last decade.  Some of the latest additions that I’ve noticed have been the “Bamboo Ewe” and “Full o’ Sheep” from Debbie Stoller’s new line of yarns. 

The craft stores are a great, economical option – especially if you are trying a new skill, like knitting in the round, or attempting to learn to crochet.  The downside of the craft stores is that chances are, there might be one or two employees there that knit or crochet, and they probably won’t be working when you are there.  It’s an “on your own” type of experience, and if you’re a novice, should the yarn your pattern calls for isn’t there; substitution might not be a possibility.  There is also the environmental factor – these goods are shipped cross country in most cases, made in other countries, and the stores do little to support your local economy.

Next up is the LYS option… awesome choice!  I’m a huge proponent of these, even though they are slightly pricier – anywhere from $7.00 all the way to $50.  The stores are usually staffed with the owner and a small, select group of employees – who have experience with the product.  They are on hand to make recommendations, substitutions, and help with pattern selection. 

Often, patterns that your LYS carries won’t be available anywhere else.  The variety of yarns might be smaller than at a big box store, but orders are usually possible and only take a few days… most also have websites or email where you can arrange an order a few days in advance. 

Many LYS also have knitting space, serve tea or coffee, and are a great place to meet and chat with other knitters and crocheters.  These shops are usually arranged by weight as opposed to by brand or type like in a craft store. 

Smaller, more intimate, and based in your community, your local LYS usually participates in things like school fundraisers or “First Friday” events, and offers special discounts on classes and yarns depending on the month or season.  These stores also tend to stock local products, and occasionally spun yarn from the employees themselves!

Finally, there is the option of the Farmer’s Market.  Talk about choosing to support directly from the source!  Many markets have farmers that also have sheep, and they will bring the wool (from sheep, alpacas, llamas!) as a side product – this is usually already spun, but you can find bags of straight wool.  One of the farmers I’ve seen even puts the name of the sheep it came from on the label. 

So when you name your sweater ‘The Maybelle Sweater’ on Ravelry, it actually came from Maybelle!  A quick word about online shopping – yes, this is a great way to go if you already know the product or are prepared to make a large purchase so that your dye lot is consistent.  Shopping via the internet – or trading too, is perfect if you are in the planning stages of a project and have time to wait.

No matter which store you choose, as craft stores are improving their selections, the LYS becomes more endangered.  Support them!  Go to a knitting night, escape from the house and go chat and sip tea and make new, knitty (or crochet-y) friends!

Got Tri-loom? (by Pamela Kelly)

Start by getting a loom and some of your extra yarn because next month we will start weaving!  If you don’t have a loom and decide to purchase one you can do so by going to www.sunflowerfibers.com along with sending me an email ( sunflowerfibers@gmail.com )  and I’ll make sure you get a 10% discount on the purchase of your very own tri-loom.

So now you’re asking what can I do with a bunch of woven triangles?  You can do a lot of things with a two foot triangle.  For example, putting 8 together you can make the “8 Piece Woven Wrap”  which is pictured on the right .  You can also purchase the pattern for this wrap at www.sunflowerfibers.com. 

To get started designing with triangles, make yourself some paper triangles and laminate them.  Than just put those triangles together and see what you come up with.  Use your imagination.  You’ll have a blast!  It is also great fun to mix woven triangles with woven squares. 

I would like you to start thinking about what you can make with a bunch of woven triangles.  Next month I will be teaching you how to weave on a triangle loom.  Also in the coming weeks I will post complete triangle weaving instructions on my website - www.sunflowerfibers.com.  I’m also working on instructions for weaving on the  square loom. 

If you have any ideas, any questions or just need a little help contact me.  Thanks for reading.  Now, Got Tri-loom?

Summer-time knitting! (by Aubrey Mayes)

   

 

It’s that time of year again! Yes- summer! Know what that means? Christmas knitting! Yes, I know it seems like a long ways away, but I assure you, it’s closer than it seems.

There are only about 150 days left until Christmas, and that’s only 150 days to knit. If you are like me and panicking about the looming perpetual deadline, here are some tips for you.

1. Santa isn’t the only one that needs a list, and check it more than twice. I suggest making a master list with projects, then separate lists for yarn type, yarn color and needle size;  receiver personal information (age, measurements, favorite colors, fiber allergies), and completion status. Microsoft Excel is amazing for this. (openoffice.org has a free office suite that is compatible with any version of Microsoft Office. )
2. Knit a little every day. I have a bit of PADD, or Project Attention Deficit Disorder, so I have many projects going at once. I try to do at least a few rows every day. Need to fit a little extra time in? Well, a full article is coming soon about that, but here are some tips: I knit on the bus, in waiting rooms, and while watching movies, whether in the theater or at home. I also listen to audio books so I can enjoy my Harry Potter and fiber fun at the same time.
3. Stay calm, organized, and prepared. Now is the best time to stock up- grab some plastic storage tubs to keep FOs in (toss in some lightly scented soap bars to keep them smelling fresh!), and keep the project yarn together and separated from each other for quick and easy access. I mean, let’s face it- nothing kills motivation like having to clean. Store the needed needles with the yarn to be sure they are free for use.  Make photocopies of the patterns (esp. if they are from library books!) and store them with the yarn. Stock up on notions and post its (for tracking a place in a pattern).
4. Winter is the best time for yarn, so have fun with all of the fibers, colors, and textures! Step out of the sock box and test yourself. Learn something new, revive something old, and just have fun with it!

Happy knitting…err I mean Knit Happy!

 

   

Have you tried loom knitting yet – part 2? (by Jen Chambers)

Since Christmas is right around the corner, you might want to start now and try some loom knitting.

This is a fun project that is easy to complete and I think is the cutest thing ever!

The pattern is free at Provo Craft’s website.

The pattern calls for using a 12″ new sink plunger inside to give the snowman stability to stand.  I didn’t have this exact pattern when I made mine, but I did use a big zip top plastic bag full of beans to give the bottom round some stability.

I wanted my snowman to look a little fluffier, so I used one thread of white worsted weight yarn, and one thread of Fun Fur.  I held the 2 strands together as I worked the pattern.

I also used little Christmas light buttons I found at the craft store.  He needed a top hat rather than a knitted cap, which I found at the craft store in the doll making section.

Don’t you kill the bunny? (by Jennifer Green)

…and other angora questions

We just got back from our County Fair. It’s a week of fun and time spent with my children. It is a time for us to share what we’ve been working on, show off the livestock and home economics projects and to share some knowledge with people who haven’t had the opportunity to enjoy the lifestyle we have.

We answer many questions about the animals during the week. Some people want to know each animal’s name, what their breed is and what that animal’s job is. Sometimes, we have an opportunity to educate people about some of the myths and misconceptions that abound about livestock and how they are raised.

We fielded many questions about rabbits this year. In particular, we answered questions about the Angora rabbits my kids had on display. We are raising German Angora rabbits and the kids are head over heels in love with them, as am I. The German Angora rabbit is a fascinating animal. Bred to be one of the largest Angoras, the German’s job is to provide a quantity of quality wool with low maintenance and upkeep requirements. They are sweet and friendly, hardy, excellent mothers and the workhorse of their kind.

One of the questions we hear most often, and one that is very surprising when you first hear it, is, “Don’t you have to kill the rabbit to get the wool?” The first time the kids got asked that question, they were so astounded that they looked at each other and then at me for guidance. No, we do not have to kill the rabbits to harvest the fiber. Depending upon the breed of Angora, the fiber is harvested, on a schedule, by either shearing or plucking the rabbit.

German Angoras are shorn every 90 days. They can produce between 60 and 75 ounces of wool per year with some animals far overreaching that average. These rabbits do not typically shed their coats, and so must be shorn rather than plucked. We remove the coat on the rabbits for two reasons. One is to harvest the fiber for use in the creation of textiles and yarn. The second is for the rabbit’s health. As I mentioned, these rabbits don’t shed their coat on their own. It is up to us, who bred them for this purpose, to periodically remove the fiber.

In so doing we cool the rabbit down in warm weather, offer an opportunity for the rabbit to grow new fiber, remove the environment for pests to live and grow, and take the time to inspect each rabbit for injury or disease that might otherwise be hidden by all that fluff. Another benefit to removing the fiber is that the animal is less tempted to groom themselves. When an Angora rabbit is forced to groom their own coat, they wind up ingesting a certain amount of fiber. This wool tends to bind up in their digestive system and cause a serious, and often painfully fatal, condition called Wool Block.

Other breeds of Angora do shed their coats periodically and for those breeds, many raisers choose to pluck the wool. Plucking (also called rooing) is not painful or mean. It is gentle and quiet and the rabbits learn to enjoy the time with their people. They are, after all, the center of attention and who doesn’t love that? Generally, the handler will place the rabbit in their lap and will gently comb through the rabbit’s coat with their fingers looking for loose clumps of fiber. Any loose bits are simply taken off with the handler’s fingers. No pulling. No injury. Just a quiet time of grooming and loving on the rabbit.

Again, it is important for the rabbit to receive this attention to prevent them from ingesting this fiber. Removing the loose fiber cuts down on matting which can harbor pests and filth, thus helping the rabbit to maintain a healthy condition. It is time the raiser can use to inspect the rabbit for condition issues and time spent in bonding with these sweet and loving creatures.

We have found our time with the rabbits to be so rewarding and memorable. The kids have learned about responsibility, love, goals, rabbit care, record keeping, showmanship and sales. I have spent priceless moments with them in support and love that will be mine to treasure forever. We continue to look forward to sharing what we have learned with those who come to see us, whether it be at the farm or at the fair. We welcome the questions that come from excited visitors and now look forward to showing folks how wonderful and rewarding these creatures are. We are no longer shocked to be asked about killing the rabbits, but rather welcome the question as an opportunity to educate and share.

Have you tried loom knitting yet – part 1? (by Jen Chambers)

It’s a whole lot of fun.

Sure it looks a little spooky and doesn’t resemble your pointy sticks at all.  How do you begin?  What will you make?

I found patterns by Googling loom knitting or circle looms.  There are quite a few patterns on Provo Craft’s website as well.

The different color rings are for different size projects.  Using the Lion Brand Knitfy Knitters the blue ring is for baby size heads, the Red ring fits kids, The Green ring for adult heads.  The Yellow ring is for even bigger projects, and I used mine to knit flat projects back-and-forth rather than in the round.

Here’s the basics….you begin by looping the yarn around each peg  going in a counter clockwise pattern wrapping the pegs one at a time.  Once you’ve wrapped each peg with a loop one time, then repeat and put a second loop around each peg.  After this, use the hook that comes with loom and pull the loop on the bottom of each peg up and over and off the peg.  It’s the same principle you learned when you learned how to bind off stitches. 

This will leave one loop on each peg.  Stop and re-loop each peg with a second loop.  Then repeat using the hook and taking the bottom loop up and over and off the peg.  As you do this, you’ll grow your project into a connected tube of knitting.

It’s very easy to create hats, scarves and other fun projects.  Look for part 2 of this article…coming soon!

Weaving on a Tri-loom can be FUN! (by Pamela Kelly)

You do not need a whole lot of equipment to make a beautiful piece of woven fabric.  You do not need years of experience or training.  You only need a little patience and a Tri-loom Weaving Kit which you can purchase at Sunflower Fibers.

Weaving on a Tri-Loom is different from traditional weaving in that it uses a continuous warp and the warp is also the weft!  What is the warp and weft? In traditional weaving the warp is the thread that have the tension on them in the weaving process and they run from top to bottom. The weft is generally looser and runs left to right.  With a Tri-Loom, a continuous piece of yarn is both the warp and the weft.

This makes the weaving process faster and easier than traditional weaving. With Tri-Loom weaving, you will need a weaving hook, the Tri-Loom, and some yarn. That is all!  Sounds like fun so let’s get started weaving!  So how much yarn do I need to weave a shawl?  Good question.

To Calculate Yardage

1. Set up loom to size you are going to weave
2. Measure across top of loom (e.g. 7’)
3. Count the number of nails (e.g 170 nails)
4. 7’ x 170 = 1190 / 3 = 397 yards OR 7’ = 2 ⅓ yards x 158 nails = 397 yards
5. Decide the length of the fringe.  Fringe is folded in half.  A 9 inch fringe = 18” or ½ yard.  ½ yard x 340 (number of nails on each side) = 170 yards for fringe
6. Yardage for 7 foot shawl = 577 yards  (397 yards from #4 + 170 yards from #5 + 10 yards fudge = 577 yards for 7 Foot Shaw
7.  If using a decorative edge along the top, add 4x the top measurement – 7 x 4 = 28 yards
8. Every path the yarn makes (down from the top to the bottom nail, across to the other side, up to the top nail) uses 7 ft of yarn (the top measurement of the loom)
9. To calculate color changes and to determine how much yardage you need for each color, you must remember:

• A complete pass is the yarn going from the nail on the LEFT SIDE (LS) top – down to nail on LS bottom – across to RIGHT SIDE (RS) bottom – to the RS top – than back down -  across and back up (14 feet).  
• You are going over 2 nails on each side for each pass (4 nails total).
• Calculate the doubled fringe (2 nails on each side (7 x 2 = 14 feet).  Fringe on each side: (9” doubled = (18” x 2) x 2 (each side) = 6 feet. 
•  So 14 feet + 6 feet = 20 feet / 3 = 7 yards for every nail used in the design.

NOTE: When buying yarn for a project, the tag might say the yarn is a certain length, they allow themselves to be off 10% either way.  So get a loom and your yarn because next month we will start weaving! 

If you decide to purchase a loom, go to www.sunflowerfibers.com and send me an email (info@sunflowerfibers.com) and you will receive 10% off your loom purchase.

« Previous Page — Next Page »